원정 개요

Team stayed 2 nights at C2 on 10 May. They left C2 at 7 pm. They reached high point at 1:30 pm. The crevasse near summit was about 5m wide and impossible to cross. They descended to BC, where they arrived at 6 pm.

Hired:
Dawa Sangmu Bhote, 6/9/77, Sankhuwasabha, Hatiya-3


Email from Edwin Lautner to Miss Hawley - June 11, 2012

I want to give you a short report of Peter's attempt on Baruntse, because he cancelled his journey earlier and went back to Austria. So he couldn't meet you in Kathmandu.

In the beginning Peter was with us on our trip. We went from Lukla over Zatrawala La to Mera Peak. We all climbed Mera Peak in windy and cold conditions and continued to Mingbo La base camp. We climbed the pass but didn't cross it, because weather wasn't good and porters were not prepared to do it. I would say it is almost impossible to cross Mingbo La with porters, because the conditions on glacier changed a lot (you need steep abseiling for about 200 meters).

It is a very beautiful, unknown valley there with some nice possibilities for climbing 6000m peaks. Probably we have been the first team on Mingbo La for the last 5-6 yrs.

However...
We couldn't cross to Ama Dablam basecamp via Mingbo La so Peter Nemec decided to go to Baruntse basecamp earlier. He came with us until Amphu Laptsa basecamp and went to Baruntse BC next day.

He climbed only with climbing Sherpa Ang Dawa from Peak Promotion. They had 3 porters.

They reached C2 without problems but had to stay there for two nights because of bad weather.

Next day Peter broke trail all the way until about 6900m. Peter told me it is where the ridge becomes small and exposed. There they had to turn back, because a huge crevasse cut the ridge. He said it was about 5 meters wide and 20 meters deep. Possibly they would have found a bypass but the climbing Sherpa didn't want to continue. Peter didn't feel confident with him, his technical knowledge wasn't convincing.

He descended, crossed Amphu Laptsa and went to Ama Dablam BC. He was in very good shape, climbed to C1 in only 3.5 hours but decided to return to Kathmandu and Austria, because NOBODY, no other expedition was there!