원정 개요

BC at low site because no water higher
C1 on SW Ridge
High point at SW Ridge all 3 members.

11th May reached 5400m and dumped loads 16th May explored ridge 6000m. No snow or ice on 1st section and 17th down to BC. 21st May 1st attempt for non-stop summit push and reached 6600m and then thunderstorm came and back to C1 and next day weather not good and on down to BC on 22nd.

24th another summit bid, climbed all day and night and 7:00 am 25th at 6400m, at bottom of a ridge stopped by bad ice like sugar into which cannot fix pitons so down to BC. If not this problem would have reached top in 4 hrs. Route was in very dangerous condition with much bare rock or bad ice. 9:00 pm 25th reached BC having cleared C1. Waited one extra day but weather bad and not time to wait long: had fixed flights from Lukla on 1 June and from Nepal 5 June.