원정 개요

The three-member Japanese got to Api in the far northwest by taking a two-day bus trip from Kathmandu to Dadeldhura and then north to Gokuleshwar on a branch of the Mahakali River. Next they trekked two hours east from Gokuleshwar, then a three-day trek north-northeast and north to BC via Makarkot, Ghunsa and Khaekot along the Chamalaya Nadi (river) to the small Joge Tal (lake).

They pitched their BC on 14 April at 3800m near Joge Tal. From there they made an acclimatization trip west of BC to the mountain ridge called Namlung Lekh and on 25 April reached 5900m on this ridge. On the 27th they returned to BC.

Now wet snow fell, and they were delayed until 8 May, when they were able to leave BC for their climb of Api. All three members climbed together all the time. They went to Api's South Face, due north of BC. They made a series of three bivouacs on the very steep (sometimes to 90-degree) face, up mostly bare rock but with some patches of snow. They reached 5500m on 11 May. But now they were confronted by overhanging rock which they couldn't get over or around.

On 12 May they descended to BC and the climb was finished. They left BC on 14 May via the same trekking route they had followed coming in. But they flew from Dhangari to Kathmandu on 21 May.