원정 개요

The Dutch couple, Alex Bijlsma and his wife, Ans Bijlsma-Nahuys, three Sherpas set out for the summit from C4 at 3:00 am on 21 May. The weather that day was "perfect" blue sky, no winds, not cold. But the two Sherpas who went ahead to break trail were up to their knees in loose sugary snow. It took the team four hours to get from C4 at 6527m to 6900m.

There in a very steep (70 degrees) area, they encountered a huge crevasse 3.5m wide. Their head Sherpa, Tendi, said it was impossible to cross or to go around. They had no option but to abandon the climb.

Even if it had been possible to surmount this obstacle, they would not have summited before 2:00 pm because the warm sun would have made progress even slower. This would have made their return to C4 too late. They turned around at the crevasse and were back in C4 at midday.

They descended to C1 22 May. As they reached C3 and C2, they found that an avalanche had taken away fixed ropes the Sherpas had used to get to C2. Furthermore C2 was in the path of avalanching. They were therefore forced to go down all the way to C1 that day.

They were back safely in BC on the 23rd.

Their high point of 6900m had been reached by the Dutch couple and their three Sherpas (and by the independent American).

Sherpas:

Dawa Sherpa, 30/12/66 (15/9/2023), Garma-5, Solu
Ngima Dorji Tamang, 3/12/73, Gorakhani-7 (near Tapting), Solu
Tendi Sherpa, 12/03/60, Tapting-6, Solu, Cho Oyu X1 (1/10/06)