원정 개요

1st BC at base of North Ridge at point 5087m on National Geographic map
2nd BC at Mingbo SW Ridge
High point on West Face via SW Ridge by all 4 members.

Climbed on the lower part of NE Face 1000m and put in fixed ropes. Then decided seracs had grown since Kennedy and Buhler had been there 1985 and were now too dangerous. So 21 and 23 April decided to abandon route and ask permission to change to SW Ridge.

Took down ropes and on 26th April turned around to Mingbo which reached 27th. 30th started up and reached 5950m. 1st May to 6600m at 3:30 pm; couldn't get back to camp if to top that afternoon and clouds building so back to C1 at 8:00 pm. Now very tired and had gotten very high and decided to abandon climb and down to BC on 2nd. Left BC 3rd. Filmed to high point (by David despite illness).