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1991 American Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam · 1991 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

BC at Mingbo (low site becauase no water above)
ABC at traditional site for ABC
C1 at traditional site for C1
C2 at traditional site for C2 on SW Ridge
C3 at traditional site for C3 at hanging glacier
High point at 6400m at C3.

25th March saw begining of 1st of snowstorm with wind that flattened tents at BC and almost decided to go to Pangboche but instead set up mountain tents; this on 25th was worst of the 5 serious storms in night. 31st weather fine, then threatening, then 4:30 pm started snowing heavily and strong wind. 2 members took loads to C2 and had terrible time getting to C1 at 9:30 pm completely exhausted. Then followed more carries to C2 but not occupied/slept in till 10 April because of reported snowfalls. C2 occupied on 16th by Harrington, Moriarty and Falvey of Irish expedition. 11th because very windy high up and Harrington and Falvey down to BC (were cold and exhausted). Finlay and Schifrin up to C2 from C1 while Moriarty stayed at C2 that day and all 4 of Bol American team arrived at C2. 12th much colder yet and all 7 in C2 started up for C3 with good progress initially, but technical problem made movement slow and arrived after 7:00 pm. 13th Bol American members left early going up. Finley not strength to go up. Schifrin ready to summit with Moriarty when Bol American team returned to C3 with decision that impossible to get to top without night out because of difficult ice. So all descended, with Finley and Schifrin to C1 that day in order to clear that camp next day.

Cleared away a lot of Thorndike trash while entirely cleared all their own.

  • 내부 원정 ID747
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD91103
  • 대장Evan Smith
  • 루트 (Route)SW Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6400m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 9명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Evan SmithUSALeader---
Mark ButlerUSAClimber---
Brent FinleyUSAClimber---
Susan HarringtonUSAClimber---
Michael MurrayUSAClimber---
Benjamin SchifrinUSAClimber---
Colin SmithUSAClimber---
Mallory SmithUSAClimber---
Richard StarkUSAClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1991 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199220803/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Southwest-Ridge-Pre-Monsoon · 1991 · 웹사이트 (5) ·