원정 개요

BC 17 Apr 5000m
ABC 25 Apr 6400m
C1 28 Apr 7000m
C2 23 May 7800m
C3 24 May 8300m
HPT 25 May 8500m by Lock at 2 am (below 1st Step).

Lock reached C3 at 3 pm on 25 May. He was feeling tired and was melting snow but was unable to drink and vomited a few times. He left C3 at 10:30 pm and was the last person to leave C3 that night. It was a very cold night.

After about two hours he started to sense that things were not quite right. He was seeing double and had lost his depth of vision. He could not separate the shadow from reality and saw flying bats!! After that feeling had kicked in, he continued climbing for another hour and a half. When he began to lose his balance he realized that this was the oncoming HACE. He turned back at about 2 am and took some dexamethasone.

At 3 am he arrived at C3, rested for two hours and continued to ABC, where he arrived at 6:30 pm. During his descent, his condition improved; however he was still very tired. When he met Jamie McGuinness at C1 he thought he was slurring his words, but was thinking clearly.

On 27 May he descended to BC.

Andrew Lock is retiring from 8000m climbing.

Oxygen: not taken, not used.