원정 개요

BC little north of true Dzasampa
ABC just south of "U" West Khumbu Schneider Map
C1 just below serac at start of face.

1st C1 at Pt 6448m on Schneider map, but it was destroyed by wind and then new one pitched at 6700m. Tried for summit from this C1, taking tent and pitching it at 7100m on face at top of serac; from 7100m went direct up face and fixed much fixed rope, joining normal route at 7850m and continued 22nd to summit in strong wind pushing summiters to true summit. 22nd Jean Luis Meunier reached 7200m and Berthaud and Du Puoy reached 8000m and turned back tired. Had lost much time trying to find route and with many tents destroyed in one week of fierce wind (which blew away loose snow and packed it hard). 22nd very clear but by 3:00 pm clouds coming up from S Face and obscured Everest summit.

Brazilian named Sergio appeared and joined their climb, but moved more slowly than French and stayed on normal route on 22nd; he came from Nepal, had no permit and was alone.