원정 개요

Departed C3 at 2:10 am in calm and cold conditions, but not extreme cold. No clouds, could see stars.

7:30 am summit on 4 Oct by Clarke, Sheedy and Kami; stayed 1 hour. Lhakpa arrived with Matter at 8:30 am, stayed less tham 5 minutes. No one else on summit with them.

Early morning hours of 4th, Brien reports (about) 17 Chinese and Tibetan guides also summited during the previous night. No idea when they departed C3, but likely early evening as they summited in the dark. Lots of crampon points on the summit, so had to be them as wind on the 3rd Oct would have blown previous tracks away.

Conditions on summit 5 mph wind. Descended back to C1 arriving around 5 pm.

Brien saw the injured Pepe accompanied by someone between C2 and C3 mid-morning on the 3rd, just at the traverse. Older man was sitting down and saw that I had a radio, so it took a while to get from him what he wanted. Eventually understood that he needed help the following day getting injured climber from C2 to ABC. Made a radio call to base camp to AAI cook to inform the injured climber's team.

Three Chinese summited after AAI that day (Chinese and Tibetan guides). They were close to ridge line on plateau on Ozark gear when AAI passed them.

A French woman later reported to Lhakpa and Brien, in Tatopani while heading home, that she summited later in the day as well (9:30-10:00 am). Brien does not remember seeing her, "but I don't know."