원정 개요

Lukasz Stebelski (email) - 22 Nov 2012

Below are the data points you requested:

(1) Camp site dates and altitudes (including BC arrival and departure dates)
Camps in regular locations:
-Chinese Camp reached on 10 Sep,
-Base camp at 5700m reached on 13 Sep,
-Camp 1 at 6400m reached on 18 Sep.
-Camp 2 at 7200m reached on 20 Sep,
-Camp 3 at 7600m reached on 30 Sep.
Base camp left on the way back on 6 Oct

(2) Summit details (date and time, etc.)

October 1 at 9.37am Nepalese time, together with my Sherpa. We started the summit attack at midnight Nepalese time.

(3) Did you use any Sherpas (and if so, who were they)?

I had Pema Sherpa with me, supplied by the Snowy Horizon agency

(4) Did you use oxygen for climbing or sleeping?

I used one bottle during the last stage of the summit attack, from ca. 8000m altitude to the summit and back to 8000m

(5) Any other relevant information about the climb would be appreciated.

I used the services of Snowy Horizon agency (contact Rishi Bhandari reshi_2010@yahoo.com)

We experienced earthquake on 18 Sep while in Camp 1 during an acclimatization night. Our first summit attempt was 24-27 Sep, but this failed due to bad weather and we returned after 1 night in Camp 2. During the 1st attempt: we experienced a major snowstorm, met the body of dead Czech climber on ropes at the seracs (6700m), and had avalanche in Camp 1. This avalanche covered a number of tents. One of them we undug, saving 2 climbers from Monterosa expedition (Ales Ort and Lucia Lopez Ferrandes). We also searched for another one of their participants, but could not find his tent. Later we learned that he died covered by the snow in his sleeping bag. His tent was completely covered by snow. Our second, successful attempt was on 28 Sep-2 Oct.