원정 개요

BC at normal site abve Mingbo
C1 at base of West Face
Biv1 (even with normal C2)
Biv2 (lower than normal C3).

After establishing BC, went to Island Peak to acclimatize. 18th Dec 2:00 am Warner and Dunmire left C1 for summit: took 4-1/2 hrs going to left of rock band immediately above C1 to reach base of route. Climbed up rib in center of W Face and biv 100ft above big orange rock after pretty steep and unconsolidated rock mixed with bare rock and same ice pitches. Biv at 5:30 pm in platform they carved out of ice and snow. 19th Dec climbed to top of seracs in technical climbing and biv 20th Dec climbed through rock band to right side of Ama Dablam. 21st Dec cold morning and late start about 9:00 am and on top at 11:15 am and on down to C2 at 9:30 pm; no one in C2 but Americans had told about food (lasagna dinners) and fuel they had left there and Italians had suggested use of their big tent. 22nd Dec to BC. Had beautiful weather fixed no ropes. Biv gear included Bible, biv tent and sleeping bags.