원정 개요

C2 reached on 29 Sept. So at 1 am on 30 Sept, team departed from C2. Maybe two other teams also, don't know which. No oxygen, no Sherpas. Conditions very cold. In the night clear and cold, good trail from C2 to C3, so route conditions good. Arrived 4 am at C3 with easy walk. Caught up with Amical just outside of C3. Tshering Nima (sirdar) said snow was deep and could not find the ropes, so they turned back.

Team climbed up to the rock band after Amical turned around. Below rock band not so much snow. Found Korean white rope and fixed about 200m. Started from rock band and finished through both sections of rock band. After that arrived on the big snow slope without rope.

Found some faint evidence of Korean trail laft after big winds. Conditions that week were big winds, so lots of blown snow, some parts hard, some parts soft. Not so much deep snow.

Here almost no wind. 30 minutes before summit was mostly no wind, quiet, beautiful weather. Could see Everest, Lhotse. Summit at 1 pm.

Koreans said they left oxygen bottle, but could not find it. Nothing we could find. Korean leader said below summit was a bamboo stick and a flag, but not on the summit; its farther. Could not find either.

Team did not leave anything on top. 10 minutes on top, still very cold, a little bit windy.

Hiro lost the way down, so the two members split. Hiro went down another route. One hour later, he remembered that he went wrong way, so returned back up to the right way, just below the plateau.

Hiro reported that he slept on the way down above the rock band. Slept out due to being too tired. Hiro slept clipped to the fixed rope, maybe a few hours ("I don't know exactly."). Then somebody came up with some clients from below using a head torch that shined directly into his face. Hiro woke up and continued down to C2.

Kenro went down right way the whole way. Sun was down, was dark. With the head torch, down, down, down.

Returned to ABC on 1 Oct, arrived at 6 pm. Cleared C2 and C1.