원정 개요

BC at Makalu BC
ABC just at end of East Col
C1 just on east side of West Col
C2 on SE Ridge on flat area
High point almost to summit.

Report from E. Hawley:

The team sent three members and three Sherpas in their summit team, and the party got so close to the top -- they reached perhaps 7100m on their 7129m high mountain -- that they declared they had summited. But they had stopped when they confronted a huge crevasse on the SE Ridge that was three or four meters across the full width of the ridge [other teams placed this crevasse at 6900m].

The members of the party were Hiraoka, Ms. Takiguchi, Wariishi, Dawa Chhiri, Pemba Chhiri and Nawang Gechoo. They had left C2 at 5:30 am on 28 April, and at about 11:30 am had reached the crevasse and decided they had summited. They returned to C1 at 4:30 pm for the night.

Their approach route had been the unusual one of approaching from the east. Their BC had been Makalu BC at 4700m. Now on their return from Baruntse, they descended to the usual Baruntse BC site across the West Col at 5500m on the west side of the Col near a lake.

Two members were not in the summit party:

Ms. Shirai stopped her ascent at C2 because she was too tired to carry on. She waited for the summit party and descended with them.

Toji had fallen on 15 April when he was about 200m below BC and had injured his ribs. He continued to C1 on the 26th with the team, but after sleeping there that night, he went down to their future BC near the lake, and left the expedition.

Sherpas in summit party:
Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Dhaulagiri I X1,
Everest X3, Makalu X2, Manaslu X2
Pemba Chhiri, 10/10/75? 18/10/75?, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Everest
Nawang Gechho, 41 yrs old, Lokhim-9, Solu


Report from B. Bierling:

Team left C2 on 28 Apr at 5:30 am. They were the only people on the mountain. When they reached the crevasse at about 7029m at 11:45 am they tried to work out how to cross it. However as they had no ladders, they quickly decided to abandon the expedition as it was impossible to get over.

They descended to C1 where they arrived at 4:40 pm. The following day they descended to BC and they left BC on 1 May.

Shigeo Toji reached C1 on 26 Apr. During their approach to BC he slipped and fell and bruised his chest. He never recovered from it.

Ms. Kazumi Shirai reached C2. She had not been feeling well during their ascent and decided to wait for the team to come back from their summit attempt at C2.