원정 개요

Lee and his two hired helpers, Mulal Gurung and Pemba Wangchu Sherpa, moved up the mountain slowly through the usual fixed camps. After their occupation of C3 at 7100m on 28 April, they descended to BC and all the way down to Namche Bazar to rest.

They returned to BC on 10 May and began their first push to the summit on 15 May, when they moved directly up to C2. They stayed in C2 until the 18th, whene they occupied C3, and next day they established C4 at the South Col.

The three climbers left C4 for the top: Lee and Pemba Wangchu at 6:00 pm and Mulal at 8:30 pm. The three reached the Balcony at 8500m together at midnight of the 19th/20th. Here Lee was extremely tired and retreated to C4; the two Nepalis went down with him. They returned to C4 at 2:00 am of the 20th and rested there until 6:00 pm of the 21st, when they set out again for the top.

The three climbers left C4 at about 6:00 pm and this time they succeeded in reaching the summit at 6:15 am on 22 May. They went back to C4 at 4:00 pm and stayed the night there. On the 23rd they were in C2, and on the 25th they arrived in BC.

Lee used oxygen from C3 to his high points to and in C3. The two Nepalis used it in C4 to their high points to and in C4.

Nepalis:
Mulal Gurung, 1/4/71, Laprak-3, Gorkha, no 8000ers.
Pemba Wangchu/Ongchu, 2/10/83, Kharikhola, Lhotse 23/5/10