원정 개요

Mohit:
18th to C1 from ABC, sleep
19th to C2, sleep
Left C3 for summit push 9 pm NST on 20th May.
Summit: 7:00 am 21 May NST.
30 minutes on summit, 10 minutes without oxygen and 20 minutes with oxygen.
Descended C2 to sleep at 6:30 pm NST
22nd to ABC.

2nd member Khaled had pulmonary edema on 1st acclimatization to C1; down to middle camp then to ABC, took 11-12 hours to ABC, coughing weak, slow. High altitude sickness, descended with oxygen down to CBC. Returned to ABC on 19 May, but not possible [to continue]. So high camp was his previous C1 acclimatization. Waited for team at ABC, returned 24 May with rest of team.

Khaled first time used oxygen at C1 (7070m) and when he became sick he used oxygen from ABC(6400m) to base camp (5200m).

The summit party Mohit, Dakipa and Mingma Tshering, left C3 for the top at 9:00 pm (NST) on 20 May and arrived there at 7:00 am on the 21st. They spent 30 minutes on the top and descended to C2 at 6:30 pm. While he was descending from the top, Mohit's vision became blurred from 8500m to C2. He continued down, and the party were in ABC on the 22nd.

The other member, Khaled, got no higher than C1: he was very slow, weak and coughing. He used oxygen in C1, and after it had taken him 11-12 hours to descend to ABC, he resumed using it in ABC and down to BC about 10 May. He was suffering from pulmonary edema. Again with two Sherpas he tried to climb higher, he did not get above ABC. where he arrived on 19 May. He stayed there waiting the return of the summiters.

Mohit also used oxygen extensively. He started on it at C1 in the morning of 19 May in his summit push, and kept on it until he returned to C2 on the morning of the 22nd.

The team did not fix any rope, but they paid $250 per person to those who fixed the ropes that they used.

Sherpas:
Dakipa Sherpa, 6/12/83, Kharikhola, Everest X1
Mingma Tshering Sherpa, 26/9/82, Beding, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1