원정 개요

BC at normal North Face site, where sun reached
ABC at North Face
High point at top of Dutch Rib.

From BC to W Face climbed 600m onto a ridge and descended to beginning of W Face on 1 Dec. 2nd Dec 6 members made ABC on N Face at 5750m but near this camp found pegs and boots of an earlier disaster and also falling seracs. Sveticic 2nd Dec to 5200m at bottom of W Face to watch what happens there (where nothing happened - no falling ice or rock and sun on face in afternoon). Planned a camp at 6400m above Dutch Rib on N Face; 4th Dec 2 members went to fix rope at last part of rib and serac field, but big avalanches came down both sides of rib and huge serac fell destroying top section of rib; 100m of ice is hanging above rib. Members ran down mountain (not hurt only afraid - "something like earthquake") and returned to BC. French route had big seracs fall near ABC at 5750m. All now back to BC: not possible to make safe descent via N Face and sent message to Lete for porters to evacuate team and left 9th Dec; that night 40cm new snow fell and had to give boots, etc. to porters and members and Sherpas went ahead to shovel away snow. W Face solo ascent without fixed ropes and in middle section if this face not possible to descend without ropes over this 80 degrees rock which is very smooth and no place to put pitons. BC atmosphere not good with all the plaques to dead climbers.

Approach march took 3 days from Lete through difficult steep terrain and had to fix rope on W Face. All US members reached 5000m, all others at least 5100-5400m on N Face carrying loads.