원정 개요

Approach: Simikot, Dharapani, Kermi, Salli Khola, Taluns, Takchhe, Taisolu Khola, Changwatang

The base camp is very high and we used no other altitude camp.

The climb could be of an alpine grade of PD.

The first part in on a glacier (no name) with some crevasses. Up to a col on the NW Ridge. After a short section a little steeper, the ridge become more flat but very exposed.

We returned by the same way to the Col du Superieur and instead to descend the glacier we continued on the ridge to another pass lower col northeast of mountain Changwatang at 5772m and then to Changwatang Pass and BC.

The next day I made an other attempt to the summit with all the group, but we go only to Col Superieur du Changwatang at 5960m and then we turned back to BC by the same way.

For the return trip, we have planned to walk to Jumla by descending the Ning Khola and the Chang La Valley, but the way was impossible with mules and we returned by the same way to Takchhe, Hepka and Simikot.