원정 개요

BC at north side of lake
C1 on West Col
C2 just before ridge.

Summiters went to the top in two groups, on 1 and 2 November. They negotiated the large crevasse at 6850m by entering it at its far left end, descending into it and climbing back up, still at the far left end.

The successful climbers in the first summit party, left C1 at 2:00 am on the 1st, got to the summit at 10:30 am and descended all the way to BC at 5:00 pm. They were Bryars, Staehelin and Van den Bos. Chhewang and Jangbu fixed 1700m of rope as they climbed from C1 that morning.

The successful members of the second party consisted of Coster, Graeffe, Smith, Sotaniemi and Wolput, plus Jangbu and Nawang Nuri. This group did not climb together like the first one, Graeffe, Sotaniemi and Jangbu left C2 at 2:00 am, while Coster, Smith, Wolput and Nawang Nuri started out at 3:00 am. The two Finnish women, Graeffe and Sotaniemi, plus Jangbu, were the first to summit at 9:00 am. They were followed by Wolput and Nawang Nuri at 12:00 noon; Coster at 12:30 pm; and Smith at 1:00 pm.

Graeffe and Sotaniemi descended all the way to BC at 4:00 pm on the same day; Jangbu stopped at C2 at 4:00 pm. Coster and Smith did not arrive in C2 until 6:30 pm because Smith was quite slow. Everyone was back in BC the next day.

The only health problem amongst the team were the mild frostbite that Ogasawara discovered he had on the fingers of his right hand after he had turned around at 7050m because he was too tired to continue (he went down with Lhakpa Kongle from Patle), and Wokka's mild illness, perhaps flu, and got no higher than 5800m on 31 October and left the team that day.

Other unsuccessful members:
Barclay never went for a summit push, twisted his knee on the approach to BC
Bonfert never went for a summit push, stayed in BC
Cotes turned around just after C2 on 2nd Nov around 6850m (very slow and weak)
Etchen turned around at same point as Ogasawara at 7050m, descended with
Pasang Sherpa from Patle
Krueger never left C2, he didn't feel good and went down to BC when we
where trying for the summit
Newton turned around just before the summit (Coster picked him up on the way
down from the summit)
Pendleton is Cotes boy friend and stayed together with her, so he also
turned around at 6850m (they descended with Lakpha Garmu Sherpa from Patle)
Wuokka never went for a summit push, had a fever in BC

Sherpas:
Chhawang Karma Sherpa, 28/1/89, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
(in fact no climbs at all, just a kitchen boy)
Gyalzen Sherpa, 13/9//90 (28/5/2047), Patle-4, no 8000ers
Jangbu Sherpa, 24/7/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X6, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse X1
Lhakpa (Kongle) Sherpa, 27/1/64, Patle, Everest X1
Nawang Nuri Sherpa, 15/5/79 (1/2/2036), Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers