원정 개요

BC west of Barun Pokhari
C1 on normal route for acclimatization
C2 on normal route for acclimatization
C3 on normal route for acclimatization
Biv 1 on West Pillar
Biv 2 on West Pillar
Biv 3 on West Pillar.

Acclimatized on normal route to Makalu La, where wind so strong tent probably destroyed soon after departure on 21 Dec. Then Wielicki went to pillar alone; from BC 27th Dec started 2:00 am from glacier, 11:00 am from bottom of pillar and biv at 6100m because of heavy load at 4:00 pm at good protected place. 28th Dec 9:00 am up again reached 6600m at 2 pm when started to snow. 29th Dec down from 6600m to BC. 2nd summit attempt again by Wielicki alone on 4th Jan. Started from BC at 3:00 am and 3:00 pm reached 2nd biv at 6600m, where had left tent. 5th Jan to mixed rock and snow, very long and complicated, dangerous and difficult in descent; 4:00 pm reached just below 7300m where there were many ropes and therefore easier; couldn't pitch tent in strong wind. Had planned to go to top and return to 3rd biv in same day; so down to BC on 5th with clear skies but impossible winds. No problem of technical difficulty but winds getting stronger so no use waiting longer. Left BC 11th Jan after decision to quit on 9th or 10th Jan.