원정 개요

Ernst Marti - 14 Nov 2011

Now this autumn we were two members and one Sherpa at Saipal. Besides me there was Mr Hans-Rudolf Gallati (you have his biodata from Ratna Chuli expedition) and Kanchha Lama Sherpa.

We had no success regarding the summit, but much success regarding the very good time we spent in the Kherang Khola. We started our approach trek in Simikot at Oct 6th. Through Kermi, Yalbang and Chala we reached our basecamp in the Kherang Khola at 4050m at October 11th. One day later we put up Camp 1 at 4700m. After some days we put up Camp 2 at 5800m at October 19th. On October 21st we tried for the summit, but snowfall and strong high winds forced us to turn back. Our high point was short of Rani Peak at about 6300m. From there the long NE Ridge would be straightforward, but very exposed to the high winds.