원정 개요

The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Martin Byrne (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(24/05,7800m),
C3(25/05,8300m),xxx(25/05,8300m))
Left: 23/05/2010
Hired: 3
Term: Abandoned at 8300m due to high winds, bad weather

Team left C2 at 10:45 am on 25th May. The weather was windy and snowy all the way up to C3, where they arrived at about 6 pm. The weather had cleared a bit by then. They were going to push for the summit the same night, but it was too windy. They were going to leave C3 at 9 pm, but it was impossible to go. They waited for a while but as the weather had not improved by midnight and they saw some teams that had turned back, they decided to abandon their summit push.

The next morning at 9:30 am it was still snowing and windy, so they decided to go down to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. The weather stayed bad all the way down to C1. On 27th May they descended to ABC.

Oxygen:
Byrne and Sherpas from C1 to high point to C1

Sherpas:
Lhakpa, Khijiphalate-2, Okhaldhunga, 28/7/72, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Lhakpa, Rawadole-1, Okhaldhunga, 24/12/1973, Everest X1
Phuri Sherpa, Khijiphalate, Okhaldhunga, 14/03/84, 1st 8000er


Kazufumi Watanabe (Japan)

Name: None
Camps: BC(11/04,5250m),ABC(17/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7050m),xxx(05/05,7500m)
Left: 23/05/2010
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7500m due to lost tent at C1 & C2 from high winds

On 5 May Watanabe climbed to C2 to pitch tent. It was a windy day. He descended to ABC on 17 May. He ascended again to C1 and C2, but found that his tents were blown away at both camps. He took 8 hours to get to C2 from ABC. He decided that he could not carry on due to the loss of his tents. He descended to ABC on same day.


Geert van Hurck (Belgium)

Name: None
Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),
C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(23/05,8800m)
Left: 26/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8800m due to his being upset by dead body

Van Hurck and Gyaluk Sherpa together with Nakamura and Nima Kancha, who were also climbing with the Asian Trekking team, left C3 at 8 pm. The weather was calm and clear. Many people on the way.

Just below the 3rd Step, Van Hurck saw the body of a dead climber. It upset him so much that he decided to abandon his climb. He turned around at about 6 am and descended to C2, where he arrived at 3 pm.

On 24th May he descended to ABC.

Oxygen:
Van Hurck from C1 to high point to C1
Gyaluk Sherpa from C3 to high point to C3

Sherpa:
Gyaluk Sherpa, Patle-5, Okhaldhunga, 21/08/1975, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1


Yoshiharu Nakamura (Japan)

Name: None
Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),C2(21/05,7800m),
C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(23/05,8600m)
Left: 26/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8600m due to problem with oxygen

Nakamura and Nima Kancha left C3 at 8 pm. They were climbing together with Geert van Hurck and Gyalu Sherpa, who were also part of the Asian Trekking team. The weather was calm and clear. Many people on the way.

Nakamura had problems with his oxygen mask and he thought that if the problem was getting worse he would get into trouble. He turned back at 8600m at 1 am (NST), and descended to C1 where he arrived at 3 pm.

The following day, 24th he descended to ABC.

Oxygen:
Nakamura from 7200m to high point to 7200m
Nima Kancha from C3 to high point to C3

Sherpa:
Nima Kancha, Pare, Namche-7, 19/7/75 (3/4/2032), Everest X2


Manual Sanjuan (Spain)

Name: Spaniard on Everest
Camps: BC(14/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(21/05,7700m),
C3(22/05,8300m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 26/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Success

On 22nd May, Sanjuan and Phur Gyalzen left C3 at 8:30 pm. Weather was good, a little bit windy. No people at the steps. They stayed for about half an hour on the summit as they were waiting for the sun to rise. There were four or five people on the summit, who came from the Nepal side.

They descended to C1, where they arrived at 5 pm. On 24th May, they descended to BC. Sanjuan was part of the Asian Trekking group and was the only one of team to reach the summit.

Oxygen:
Sanjuan from C2 to summit to C2
Phur Gyalzen from C3 to summit to C3

Sherpa:
Phur Gyalzen, Yilajung, Khumbu, 16/4/1970, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2


William Burke (USA)
David Liano (Mexico)

Name: Eco Everest Double North
Camps: BC(11/04,5200m),ABC(18/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7800m),
C3(22/05,8300m),xxx(22/05,8700m)
Left: 27/05/2010
Hired: 3
Term: Abandoned at 8700 due to exhaustion

High point at 8700m at 2nd Step at 1 am.

On 22nd May the high point team left C3 at 8:30 am. The weather was good until they reached the ridge, where it got very windy and cold. Burke was feeling strong until he reached the ridge and he felt the altitude. When they reached the 2nd Step he felt very exhausted and he thought that he probably could make it to the summit, but not down again, so he decided to turn back. They descended to C3, rested there for a while and then carried on to C1, when they arrived at about 6 pm. The next day they descended to ABC.

Liano and Phur Gyalzen reached the North Col for acclimatization on 25th April. When Liano was back at ABC he developed a chest pain and as his father had suffered from a stroke he did not want to take any risks. He decided to leave BC on 15th May and went back to Kathmandu, where he arrived on 16th May. He stayed in the Yak & Yeti for two days. As he was feeling better and the Norvic clinic could not find any thing wrong with him he decided to go to the south side of Mount Everest. He took a helicopter to BC on 18th May.

Oxygen:
Burke from C1 to high point to C2
Mingma and Sonam Bhote from C2 to high point to C2

Sherpas:
Phur Gyalzen, Yilajung, 16/4/70
Mingma Sherpa, Yilajung, 21/2/68
Sonam Bhote, Makalu-Barun, 25/7/1979


David Klein (Hungary)
Laszlo Alfred (Konyi) Varkonyi (Hungary)

Name: Dreher 24 Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(07/04,5100m),ABC(11/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),xxx(26/04,7200m)
Left: 29/04/2010
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 7200m due to fatal avalanche

BC at normal site
C1 at North Col.

The two man team were on the normal North Col route. From ABC, which they established on 11 April at 6400m, they went up to the site for C1 and returned to ABC to rest. They set up C1 at the North Col on the 25th, and next day started climbing above the Col. It was very windy, so at 7200m they turned back to descend to ABC.

They had gotten down to about 6800m at 12:00 noon (Nepali time), when an ice serac collapsed above them; it broke into pieces and gathered snow as it moved down the mountain. Its ice blocks first hit Varkonyi, who was at 6800m, 15-20 meters above Klein. Klein was then hit by snow and ice which was now rolling down the mountain.

Klein was left hanging on a fixed rope and was rescued by Sherpas, who pulled him up and helped him get onto his feet. His right arm was badly bruised and very painful; he got back to ABC at 2:00 pm.

But Varkonyi had disappeared. Klein had expected him to pull him up, but the Sherpas who did said that they could not see him. Sherpas from several expeditions (this team had none with them) did the best they could to search for him that day and the next, but the avalanche area was very unstable and dangerous, and they found no trace of Varkonyi where they felt it was safe to look.

Whereas the avalanche carried Klein down a short distance with it, it apparently did not move Varkonyi down the mountain. Klein believes his teammate was hit from above and covered by the fallen ice, which still covers him at 6800m.

Klein returned to BC on the evening of the 27th, and back in Kathmandu a few days later, he thought, but wasn't certain, that he had left BC on the 28th and was back in Kathmandu on the 29th, but actually he had left BC on the 29th and checked into his hotel on the 30th.


Aldona Skeraityte (Lithuania)

Name: Lithuanian on Everest
Camps: BC(12/04,5200m),ABC(19/04,6400m),C1(01/05,7000m),xxx(01/05,7000m)
Left: 26/04/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7000m due to bad health, AMS

Skeraityte had not been feeling well during most of the expedition. She reached C1 on 1st May, which was her highest point. However, when the team went on the summit push, Skeraityte wanted to join. She got to C1 on 20th May, but did not feel well. She spent one night and when the rest of the Asian Trekking team ascended to C2 she descended to ABC, where she saw the doctor of Alex Abramov's team. She was told that she had mild AMS.

Oxygen:
Taken, not used

Sherpa:
Phura Nuru, Tesho, Namche-5, 28/6/85, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X2


Tamas Seregi (Hungary)

Name: Hungarian to Everest
Camps: BC(07/04,5200m),ABC(15/04,6200m),xxx(20/04,6800m)
Left: 25/04/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6800m due to bad feeling about expedition

Seregi did not reach the North Col. He was on his way up on 21 April and decided he did not feel happy about the expedition. So he returned to ABC and thought it all over again. He decided to leave on 24 April.


Marco Chiantore (Italy)

Name: None
Camps: xxx(7000m)
Left:
Hired:
Term: Did not attempt climb

Chiantore was only on a North Col permit; he was not on an Everest permit. But he was contemplating going further, had he felt like it. However, Chiantore went to North Col returned to KTM.