원정 개요

C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col (placed camps only, slept in on 20th).

Strong winds prevented earlier summit success. De Bos to C4 20th to make summit bid but wind too strong to try.

On 29th Muller and De La Ferriere at C4 for summit bid (many others there too from other expeditions) and again winds sent them down next day.

1st Oct 5 members in C4 and also down on 2nd.

3rd Oct Salino in C4 and on top 4th; left C4 at 9:00 am, 3 hrs after wind stopped, and climbed to left on rock, avoiding deep snow and cornices; on top 2:45 pm. Salino slept in C4 (US's Lowe to C2 direct). Oct 4th summiters ran out of oxygen about S Summit in descent.

On Oct 6th at C4: Roches (2), Pivots (2), Desez and De Bos, Dorje and Ang Phurba from Rolwaling for summit bid. Annie Pivot waited near S Summit for her husband to go to top; 2 Sherpas also today without oxygen (used it previous night). At S Summit in descent met Korean who died (De Bos gave rucksack with oxygen mask and Bernard Roche gave gloves and Batard's Belgian member and A Pivot). Annie Pivot stayed at C4 that night using oxygen for 1st time; too much wind on 8th and finally down; on 9th and no more attempts.

Both Roches flew from Col at 4:00 pm (not from summit because wind too strong) and arrived at BC by double parapente in 15 minutes.


Chevalier & Muller

Left BC 2 Oct and by helicopter to KTM 4th. Were on 2nd team, had made several attempts and reached Col but not above because winds - all at BC C2 and above to C4.

De La Ferriere at BC because tired after summit bid 29th. Lost 2 precious days in big argument with Batard over use of satellite. This may have cost her becoming 1st French woman atop Everest.