원정 개요

BC on north side Lower Barun Glacier just below icefall
ABC at top of icefall
C1 on East Couloir of Chamlang and Lower Barun Glaciers
C2 on North Face (north of "g" of Chamlang mt) at bergschrund
C3 on shoulder of North Face (halfway between point 6705m and "g").

Climb was very hard: between BC and ABC daily avalanching danger; between ABC and C1 crevasses and face was very hard steep ice with very little snow. Fixed 350m rope total; had not intended to fix much rope; used all their ice material and no snow material at all. C1 tent completely destroyed by stone avalanching but no one injured and another tent there blown away. Went to East Summit which is 10 km from Main Summit. Found equipment from Doug Scott's expedition. Route was mostly same as Scott's Spring 1984 except for section of big crevasses on face.

First Dutch women's expedition to anywhere outside Europe.

Doctor (Boom) went to C2 only because not so technically skilled as other 5 and came only as doctor.


Gerda de Groene (by email) - June 2005

On our expedition to the Chamlang we had only oxygen for emergency purposes and luckily we didn't have to use it. Three of us succeeded to reach the east summit (7290m) on May 10th, and two of us a day later on the 11th. On the 12th the Monsoon started, so we were just in time.