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Asian Trekking Eco-Everest Expedition 2010

Everest · 2010 · 봄 (1) · Nepal

원정 개요

The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Mika Pitamaki (Finland)
Timo Allan Ilmari Jaatinen (Finland)

Name: None
Camps: BC(16/04,5350m),C1(19/04,6100m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),
C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
Left: 25/05/2010
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Summit team left C4 at 11:30 pm on 21 May. It was clear and cold and very calm. There were about 40 to 50 people on the fixed ropes. Straightforward climb. They spent two hours on the summit as the views were so good. They left the summit at about 10:20 am and descended to C4, where they arrived at about 1:30 pm. They spent the night there and carried on to C2 the next day. Back to BC on 24th May. They took a helicopter back to Kathmandu on 25th May.

Oxygen:
From C3 to summit to C3 by Pitkamaki, Jaatinen and Sonam
From C4 to summit to C4 by Phurba Tenzing

Sherpas:
Sonam Tshering, 17/2/88 (5/11/2044), Kharikhola, Solu, no 8000ers
Phurba Tenzing, 36 years old, Thamiteng, Khumbu, no 8000ers


David Liano (Mexico)

Name: None
Camps: BC(18/05,5350m),C2(19/05,6400m),C3(20/05,7100m),C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
Left: 26/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Success
Other: Climbed Lhotse (LHOT-101-05) and attempted Everest North (EVER-101-02)

After having been up to the North Col on the north side with Bill Burke, Liano went back to Kathmandu, where he stayed for four days and on 18th May he took a helicopter to EBC.

As he was already acclimatized, Liano and Pasang Rita went straight up to C2 on 19th, C3 on 20th, C4 on 21st and summited on 22nd.

They left C4 at 11:30 pm. There was a big traffic jam on the Hillary Step. On the summit at 8:30 am they had good views. They stayed for about 45 minutes. They descended to C4, where they arrived at 11:30 am. After having rested for one hour, Liano carried on to Lhotse C4 (7800m), where he arrived at 3 pm. Pasang Rita descended to C2. Another Sherpa, Pasang Norbu, was waiting at Lhotse C4 for him.

Oxygen:
Liano from C3 to Everest summit to C4 on Lhotse
Pasang Rita from C4 to Everest summit to C4

Sherpa:
Pasang Rita, Yilajung, Khumbu, 12/7/1974, Everest X3


Cleo Weidlich (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(12/05,5350m),C1(13/05,6100m),C2(14/05,6400m),C3(15/05,7500m),
C4(16/05,8000m),Smt(17/05)
Left: 27/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Dawa Tshering and Weidlich left C4 at 12:20 pm. The weather was clear and calm. Weidlich tried to climb without the use of supplementary oxygen and reached the top of the Balcony without it. When she got there she had a dry throat and she was getting cold, so she decided to use oxygen. Straightforward climb. They stayed on the summit for about 45 minutes, however, no views. Complete white-out. On the way down, they ran out of oxygen on the bottom of the Hillary Step and carried on without. On the descent, Dawa Sherpa also helped a Nepali climber and they assisted Rick Firmer of Kenton Cool's team, who needed some helped near C4.

The weather turned very bad at around 2 pm. There was a complete white-out and it was was tough getting down. Weidlich and Dawa Sherpa reached C4 at about 6 pm. On 18th May they descended to C2, where they stayed until 22nd May before they ascended again to C3 to tackle Lhotse.

Oxygen:
Weidlich from top of Balcony (8500m) to summit to 8700m
Dawa Tshering from C4 to summit to 8700m


Sherpa:
Dawa Tshering, Thami, Khumbu, 19/11/66, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X3


Serge Massad (Canada)

Name: None
Camps: BC(15/04,5350m)
Left: 17/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Did not attempt climb

According to Kaju of Asian Trekking, the pair reached base camp and stayed a couple of nights and left again.


Bhagyashree Sawant (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(25/04,5340m),C1(2/05,6300m),C2(03/05,6400m),xxx(22/05,6400m)
Left: 25/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6400m due to high altitude sickness

High point at 6400m due to high altitude sickness.

Sawant spent a night in C2 on way down to BC on 23 May. Next day to BC.

Sawant returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will probably leave on 2 or 3 June. She wants to try Everest from north side in autumn. If not allowed then will try from south side.

Sawant suffered from HAS at 6400m on 22rd (severe headache, loss of memory, lost appetite, could not speak properly).

Sherpa:
Tenzing Dorje, 19 Nov 1970, Phortse, Everest X4


Mamta Sodha (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(11/04,5300m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7000m),
C4(21/05,8000m),Smt(22/05)
Left: 26/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Mamta and Nawang Karsang left C4 between 10-10:30 pm on 21 May. They reached summit at 10:07 am on 22 May and stayed on summit for 30 minutes. Apa Sherpa was also there on summit. Mamta and Nawang descended to C4 at 4:30 pm spent the night. On 23 May went down to C2, slept there and next day to BC. Summit day weather was good bit windy.

The team returned to Kathmandu on 29 May and will leave on 2 June.

Sherpa:
Nawang Karsang Sherpa, 26/11/67, Khumjung, Everest X2


Arun Vajpai (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(11/04,5334m),C1(20/04,6000m),C2(22/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),
C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(22/05)
Left: 25/05/2010
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Vajpai and Tshering Phinjo along with other climbers of Asian Treks Eco Expedition team left C4 between 9:30 pm to 10 pm on 21 May. Vajpai and Tshering Phinjo reached to the top at 6:33 am on 22 May. They stayed on summit for about 20 minutes, descended to C4 and continued to C2 where they reached between 3-4 pm, spent night there. Next day to BC.

Ahead of Vajpai there were about 15 climbers on the summit. At the beginning there was a little snowfall, but after about 45 minutes it stopped and weather became clear, but a little bit windy. Vajpai said that it was amazing to see sunrise coming from below.

Vajpai returned to Kathmandu on 25 May and will leave on 31 May. Vajpai plans to climb Lhotse next year.

Sherpa:
Tshering Phinjo, 29/04/73 (17/1/2030), Khumjung, Everest X1


Unassigned climbing Sherpas:
Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (summited with Weidlich)
Nima Tshering Sherpa (summited with Vajpai)
Pasang Temba Sherpa (summited with Apa Sherpa)

  • 내부 원정 ID7299
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER10101
  • 대장Dawa Steven Sherpa
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 21명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Dawa Steven SherpaNepalLeader---
Apa (Appa) SherpaNepalClimbing Leader성공사용-
Timo Allan Ilmari JaatinenFinlandClimber성공사용-
David Liano GonzalezMexicoClimber성공사용-
Serge MassadCanadaClimber---
Mika PitkamakiFinlandClimber성공사용-
Bhagyashree Manohar SawantIndiaClimber---
Mamta SodhaIndiaClimber성공사용-
Arjun VajpaiIndiaClimber성공사용-
Michel WaechterCanadaClimber---
Cleonice Pacheco (Cleo) WeidlichUSA/BrazilClimber성공사용-
Dawa Tshering (Dawa Chhiri) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Nuru SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nawang Karsang SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Nima Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Rita (Pa Rita) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Pasang Temba SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Phurba Tenzing SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Sonam Tshering SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tenzing Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Tshering Phinjo SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

On Top of the WorldVajpai, Arjun · 2010 · 단행본 (1) ·