원정 개요

C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Members reached S Col 18th Sept but slept in for first time on 23rd. Batard by helicopter to Gorak Shep 19th Sept and started up from BC 22nd and slept in C2. 23rd to S Col but windy and snowing and down to BC same day. [1st summit attempt by Tournaire, Janin, Pelle, Decamp failed at 8300m on 22nd].

2 days to Lobuche to meet Italian research group there and they tested him and decided to collaborate about physchological testing and Batard use of radio. 27th back to BC. 29th Batard left BC to climb direct to top in one night and day; this day others were at S Col now (Christine Janin, Erik Decamp, Pascal Tournaire, Bernard Germain, Bruno Gallet, Olivier Besson and 4 Sherpas). Batard reached C2 by 9:30 pm but windy and cloudy so at 11:00 pm decided to wait in C2. At 3:00 am awoke and started up at 3:15 am; at 7000m Decamp told him by radio weather too bad and Batard turned around and was back in BC same day.

3rd Oct Batard from BC to C2 for 2 nights waiting for strong wind to ease, as it did on full moon day/night of 4th Oct. From C3 at 6:30 am on 5th and on summit 4:50 pm of 5th. Christine and Pascal also from C3 at 2:30 pm and Batard met them at Col and (Pascal just above Col); Christine on oxygen from Col, Pascal from 7500m and all 3 to summit together. 3 stayed at top together 10 mins in very cold and windy weather. Batard began digging snow cave 2m below summit on west side. Batard very tired at 8500m and above and at 3:00 pm started freezing fingers and nose (was not on oxygen at all) and "when I reached the top I was not so good." 1 hr to dig cave and was inside 6:00 to 6:30 pm; "too much risk, is better to go back"; returned to Col at 9:00 pm and stayed there that night. 6th Oct at 7 am left Col and 4:30 pm at Lobuche.

6th Oct Annie Dubois tried for summit (with Veronique Perillat of Annie Beghin's team) from C2 but turned back after 2 hrs [from below C3].

6th Oct "Babu" Sherpa who had waited at Col for Batard for Lhotse, went to Everest summit alone at 9:00 am with oxygen.

Batard wants to try Everest-Lhotse next spring or autumn of necessary and use oxygen from 8500m to top and digging cave (but not sleeping or probably not descending). Disappointed not to have succeeded in this time, but "I am prudent."

One-legged member LeBissonnais reached S Col.

Batard did not oxygen at any time on ascent or descent.

Regarding [physical] quarrel with Sherpani, see Batard's "declaration" in his Everest spring 1991 file.


Batard - 17 Dec 1990

"Huyberechts claimed he failed to reach summit because all tents taken down, but actually this not true - he was too slow - he has since retracted this claim."


Ministry of Tourism - 5 Oct 1990

Top 11:00 am today
- Nawang Thile Sherpa, 40
- Sonam Tendu Sherpa, 29
- Erik Decamp, 36 started at 3:00 am from C4, stayed on top 1 hour

On top 4:30 pm
- Batard, 38, mountain guide
- Pascal Tournaire, 31
- Christine Janin, doctor, 33


Batard - 18 Sept 1990

Returned from Xixabangma 17 Sept without success; reached 7600m and then too much snow (all other members stayed at Xixa).

Batard goes by helicopter from KTM tomorrow morning to BC. His team of Sherpas, Decamp and Michel Pollet have made the way to the Col already and "if the weather is good I start up after tomorrow. I need 3 days of good weather." If successful, goes quickly to KTM and Paris.

Batard had gone to Xixabangma for acclimatization reached 7600m there and left Spaniards before their climb finished; arrived KTM 17 Sept to go to KTM.