원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

The first summit party left C3 for the top on 23 May at 11:45 pm (Chinese time). They were: Delstanche, Karacic, St. Germain, Vickers and Sherpas Dawa Jangbu and Thile Nuru. All except Karacic and Dawa Jangbu reached the summit on the 24th at 10:07 am (7:52 NST) and were back in C3 at 5:75 pm. Karacic was very slow; he and Dawa Jangbu summited at 2:00 pm (11:45 NST) and got back to C3 only at 9:45 pm.

The next day, the 25th, all were in C1 except St. Germain, whose three fingers were frostbitten and who descended to ABC. The others joined him in ABC on the 26th.

Meanwhile the second summit group launched themselves from C3 at midnight of 24/25 May. Those in this group were Bull, Hopper, Kazanas, Kinloch, Lundsgaard, O'Brien, Rodriguez, Tertil and Sherpas Lhakpa Gelu, Pasang Gelu, Phurba Wangchu, Jangbu from Kharikhola, Jangbu from Patle and Gyalzen. Six of the members, Kazanas, Kinloch, Lundsgaard, O'Brien, Rodriguez and Tertil and five Sherpas, Lhakpa Gelu, Gyalzen, the two Jangbus and Phurba Wangchu, made it all the way to the top. The successful members got there between 12:45 (Kazanas) and 1:05 pm (Tertil) (10:30 to 10:50 NST).

Bull reached 8350m, suffered from vertigo and with Pasang Gelu turned back to C3. Hopper climbed up to 8625m and became fearful and also went down to C3.

All the second group climbers returned to C3 to sleep that night except O'Brien and Kinloch. Kinloch, descending from the summit, suddenly became blind. He told O'Brien that this had happened to him before (not on a mountain). He had no pain; he just couldn't see anything, O'Brien and Jangbu from (Patle) spent 12 hours getting him down from the top of the 2nd Step to the mushroom rock on the top of the 1st Step at about 8600m. O'Brien was on his knees placing Kinloch's feet and unclipping him from the fixed ropes and clipping him back again while Jangbu short-roped him.

Now Kinloch sat down and refused to move. The Scottish police officer now threw his oxygen equipment and water flask down the mountain side, pulled out the syringe with which rescuers were trying to inject him with medication, and fought off the Sherpas who attempted to get him up on his feet. He said to O'Brien, "It was my 25 year ambition to climb Everest, I've got to the top, and this is an Ok place to die." He was suffering from extreme exhaustion, cerebral edema and hypothermia.

By this time O'Brien and Jangbu were very cold and had had no oxygen for seven hours. O'Brien reported the situation to leader Dan Mazur at 2:00 am on the 26th and Mazur told them to come down; by now O'Brien was hallucinating. He and Jangbu from Kharikhola went down to C3 at 5:00 am; Jangbu from Patle and Phurba Wangchu arrived there half an hour later.

O'Brien got into a Russian tent at C3. At 10:00 am he was awakened by a Russian who was about to dismantle the tent. He descended to C1 at 2:00 am on the 27th and continued down to ABC at 1:00 pm the same day.

Kinloch's body remained where he had died.

Other Non-summiting members:

Crosland on the 22 May got to 7500m, where he became exhausted; he left on the 26th.

Eli Hall also climbed to 7500m on 27 April, now had a stomach problem, hoped to recover soon and stayed in ABC until 22 May. He then realized he was not fit enough to join any push for the top and left on 22 May.

Jesse Hall developed a retinal hemorrhage in each eye at C1 on the North Col on 16 April and left the expedition on the 20th.

One of Irnich's fingers got frostbitten in C3 on 24 May, so he made no attempt to go to the top, and descended with the second summit group.

Lindstrom was not strong, got to ABC only and left on 15 Aril.

Marino went to C1 in the party who set up the camp, then got a stomach problem and left on the 26th.

Expedition leader Mazur never went above C3.

The members of the first summit party used oxygen from C2 to top to and in C3. Their Sherpas used none. In the second group, the members were on oxygen from C1 to their high points to C1 while their Sherpas were on it from C3 to their high points and back to C3.

Sherpas:
Dawa Jangbu, 4/6/79, Patle-4, Okhaldhunga, Lhotse 19/5/08
Gyalzen/Gyalje Sherpa, 25/1/74 (12/10/2030), Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
Jangbu Sherpa, 22/2/81, Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
Jangbu Sherpa, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X4, Lhotse S1
Lhakpa Gelu, 13/4/77, Thumbuk, Beni-3, Solu, Everest X4, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X2
Pasang Gelu, 28/11/63, Dhimbul, Gudel-9, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
Phurba Wangchu, 5/12/75, Waku-9, Solu, Everest X1, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1
Thile Nuru, 26/8/74, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1, Lhotse X1


Dan Mazur & Laval St. Germain - 24 March 2020

St. Germain summited without the use of supplemental oxygen. As