원정 개요

Before occupying C1, the team made numerous trips to the site as they acclimatized during the period of 10 to 17 April.

The major summit pushes were in made the second half of May, but one member, Ms. Lucile de Beaudrap, summited on the 7th. She and Namgya Tshering carried a tent and food with them as they stayed at the sites for C3 and C4 since the camps had not yet been established. They left C4 site on 6 May at the early hour 6:00 pm because she was a slow climber. They arrived at the summit on the 7th at 7:00 am and went down to C2 at 8:00 pm. She left the expedition on 11 May, reached Kathmandu on the 14th and flew out of Nepal the next day.

Three members and three Sherpas were the next to go for the top. They were Raiha, Searle, Solie, Mingmar, Chhong Karma and Lhakpa Tshiring, who left C4 on the 16th at 7:30 pm. Lhakpa Tshiring turned back to C4 at about 4:00 am on 17 May at 8300m because he was not feeling well. All the others summited at 7:52 am and joined him in C4 at 5 pm. The party descended to C2 the next day and were in BC on the 19th. They left BC on the 21st, returnd to Kathmandu on the 25th and left Nepal on 27 and 29 May.

The final summit group consisted of seven members and eight Sherpas: Alsiyabi, Armesto, Jack, Mahruki, Petitt, Sevgul, White, Tashi Thundu, Palden Namgye, Sonam Finjo, Redar Lama Bhote, Mingma Nuru, Namgya Tshering (again from BC), Dawa Tshering and Phu Tashi. They left C4 at 6:30 pm on 22 May. At 3:00 am the following day, Petitt turned around at the Balcony (8500m); he knew he would not be strong enough to reach the top and declared that this would be his high point; Phu Tashi went with him all the way down to C2 at 4:30 pm. The were in BC the next day.

The rest of the party continued to the summit on 23 May. The first to get there were White and Palden Namgye at 6:45 am; the last were Alsiyabi with Redar Lama Bhote at 12 noon. All summiters stopped in C4 for the night between 1:00 and 6:30 pm except Mahruki, who descended slowly and stopped in C3 at 8 pm. Sevgul, who was much faster, went on down to C2 at 4:00 pm. All were in C2 by the 24th and in BC the next day.

Everybody used oxygen: all members except Mahruki from C3 to their high points, down to and in C4 and down as long as their supplies lasted; Mahruki started only at 8500m and used it from there to the summit and back to C4. All Sherpas used it from C4 to their high points to and in C4.

The only health problems hit White and Lhaka Tenzing. White knew his toes were getting very cold when he reached the Balcony on his way to the top, but he said the summit was more important than frozen toes; he will probably lose the ends of the two toes.

Lhakpa Tenzing fell in the Icefall when a ladder pulled away in the warmish hour of 2:00 pm, and he fell off the ladder. He broke bones in his wrist.

Sherpas:
Chhong Karma, 25/6/80 (12/3/2037), Tingla-2, Solu
Dawa Tshering, 10/9/81 (25/5/2038), Khunde, Everest X1, Kangchenjunga X1
Lhakpa Tshiring, 18/4/79 (5/1/2036), Khunde
Mingma Nuru, 27/6/85 (13/3/2042), Khunde
Mingmar Sherpa, 22/7/70 (4/7/2027), Damar, Jantarkhani-9, Okhaldhunga,
Everest X3
Namgya Tshering, 22/8/82 (6/5/2039), Khumjung, Everest X1
Palden Namgye, 20/9/72, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X4, Manaslu X1, Annapurna X1
Phu Tashi, 23/10/77 (7/7/2034), Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Redar Lama Bhote, 19/11/86, Hatiya-3, Makalu, Everest 20/5/09
Sonam Finjo, 3/10/85 (17/6/2042), Khunde, Everest X1
Tashi Thundu, 10/4/85, Khumjung, Everest X5