원정 개요

Summit: 23 May by Cohen and Nima Grimen at 3:30 am and Pasang Kaji and Kapitulik at 4 am.

Summit team left 7:45 pm on 22nd May. The reason why they left so early was that they wanted to the first ones on the summit to beat the crowds. They summited at 3:30 am and 4 am. It was still dark when they arrived. Cohen and Nima Grimen stayed for about 10 minutes on the summit and did not get views. Pasang Kaji and Kapitulik stayed until sunrise to enjoy the view. Cohen and Kapitulik descended to C1, where they arrived at about 5 pm and Nima Grimen and Pasang Kaji descended to ABC, where they arrived at 7 pm. The next day everybody descended to BC.

Davalos reached 6500m on 26th April. He was suffering from a bad cough and had breathing problems. He was not up to the climb, so he decided to stop climbing. He stayed at ABC for the rest of the expedition with a few trips to C1.

Cohen, Kapitulik and Davalos left BC on 25th BC.

McGuinness reached C2 on 23rd May and stayed for two nights. The reason he was not going on to the summit with Cohen and Kapitulik was that they had two good climbing Sherpas and they only had two tents at C3, so he thought it was better not to go. Another reason for not going with his clients was that they were keen to summit at midnight and McGuinness wanted good views from the summit for a good panoramic photo. He waited at C2 for two nights for the weather to improve, however, the winds did not abate. He descended to ABC on 25th May. On 27th he left ABC to go to BC and on 28th he went all the way to Zangmu to recover from dysentery. He returned to BC on 29th and ascended to North Col on 4th June to pick up some stored gear, including oxygen bottles. McGuinness went back to BC to see whether the weather would improve so he could summit and to clear the oxygen on the mountain. However, as the weather did not improve, he left BC on 7th June.

Oxygen:
Cohen and Sherpas from C2 to summit to C2
Kapitulik from C2 to summit to North Col
McGuinness slept on oxygen at C2, but did not climb on it

Sherpas:
Nima Grimen, Gudel-5, Solu, 31/5/1982
Pasang Kaji, Dogre, Sotang-6, Solu, 24/2/81, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1, Manaslu X1