원정 개요

C1 same as Nepalese army expedition Spring 1990
C2 high in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at Col.

1st summit attack from C4 by 3 Koreans, 1 Japanese and 1 Sherpa planned for 11:00 pm 1st Oct. Cancelled by strong wind and team did not leave C4.

2nd attack 6th Oct. Left C4 00:20 hrs 4 Koreans (Sugiyama who turned back just below S Summit and down to C3) and 2 Sherpas (3 Koreans at summit 6:00 am and Sherpas at 8:00 am).

3rd attack by Ham Sung-Hun alone from C4 at 5:00 am at same time as US summiters but not climbing together; Ham going up for photos, not summit. 4:00 pm French descending gave him gloves near S Summit. Another French team saw slide marks down SW Face. Body not seen by time team left BC. Also on 7th Oct, Yanagihara and Nima Rita go up to 8300m to search, taking rucksack for Ham.

More members not in summit bids because not enough oxygen. Team left BC 9th Oct.

Almost all teams switched to S Col route; this "no good" - thinking only of summit but "climbing important"; Japanese and Koreans fixed all rope, worked hard to make route and others came along to use what they had toiled to fix (others teams gave no money for this except for Icefall route).