원정 개요

The Asian Trekking Eco Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-5 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


Nicholas Cunningham (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(24/04,6096m),C2(25/04,6522m),C3(05/05,6950m),
C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/2009
Hired: 1
Term: Success

BC at Khumbu Glacier
C1 above the Khumbu Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse West Face
C4 at South Col.

Cunningham and Phurba started from C4 at 9:15 pm on 20 May, reached summit at 5:30 am on 21 May, and stayed on summit for 40 minutes. Cunningham and Phurba descended to C4 at 8:40 am. They had rest in C4 for 3 hours then to C2 at 4:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC.

Summit day weather was perfect. About 50 climbers were ahead of Cunningham and 10-15 climbers were with them and may be about 50 climbers were behind him. Cunningham returned to Kathmandu on 28 May. He probably will leave on 1 June.

This was the last of his Seven Summits.

Sherpa:
Phurba Sherpa, 27/6/58, Thamo, no 8000ers


Jesse Easterling (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(17/04,5350m),C1(22/04,5900m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(08/05,7200m),
xxx(08/05,7200m)
Left: 17/05/2009
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7200m due to sickness from drug taking

Easterling had to abandon expedition as he followed his doctor's advice and took 4 mg of Dexamethasone 3 times per day. He started taking it in mid-April. He started feeling first symptoms (paranoia, memory loss, ravanous appetite, confusion, ulcers, internal bleeding in first week).

He thought it was altitude and his upset stomach. When he climbed to C3 he even took Nipefidine to make climb easier. But it was still very hard for him. After his ascent to C3 he descended to Lobuche for four days to rest and recover. All the time he continued taking Dex. He went back to BC and started getting panic attacks. However, he did not tell anyone as he still wanted to go to summit. Bill Burke gave him $60 to go to HRA tent. They found acute adrenal failure and steroid-induced psychosis. He was helicoptered out from BC together with Henry Voigt. He first went to Blue Cross, then to International Clinic, where they took some blood and told him to take Prozac against his paranoia. He went back to the Malla hotel for one night and after his stool was bloody and he threw up blood, they took him to Norvic Hospital. He stayed there from 19 May until 1 June.

Easterling emphasizes that his memory has not quite come back and that he cannot remember everything in detail.

Sherpa:
Phu Tashi, 23/10/77, Phortse, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1


Will Cross (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(11/04,5400m),C1(15/04,6000m),C2(16/04,6300m),xxx(27/04,6500m)
Left: 08/05/2009
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 6500m due to lack of time (and death of Lhakpa Nuru)

BC at Khumbu Glacier
C1 above the Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
High point at base of Lhotse Face.

Cross spent the night at C2 and went to BC on 28th. He waited in BC for good weather till 8 May. He said he just did not like to wait for long and left BC. He returned to Kathmandu on 11 May and will leave on around 15 May. Cross wants to go to Cho Oyu, but Asian Trekking told him that it will take a week to get permit for Cho Oyu. He said he does not have enough time if he is to wait one week in Kathmandu [but he ultimately did go to Cho Oyu].

Sherpa:
Nawang Tenzing (Nawangle), 1/2/60, Phortse, Everest X3, Lhotse X2


William Burke (USA)
Randolph Allen (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(15/04,5350m),C1(18/04,5900m),C2(21/04,6400m),C3(20/05,7200m),
C4(21/05,7900m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 27/05/2009
Hired: 3
Term: Success

Summit team left C4 at 10 pm on 22 May. It was very windy at start; however wind died down later on. They spent about 30 minutes on summit, but with no views. They descended to C4, arrived at 2 pm. On 24 May descent to C2. They had to stay at C2 for two nights due to heavy snowfall and descended to BC on 26 May.

Allen reached C4 on 21 May, stayed two nights. When Burke left for summit on 22 May, he left C4 at 11:30 pm with Puchhanga Bhote. He reached about 8000m when he noticed that he could not breathe due to problem with oxygen mask. He decided to turn back to C4 at about 2 am. Puchhanga carried on to the summit.

Sherpas:
Mingma Sherpa, Thamo, 01/10/77
Puchhanga Bhote, Chepuwa-3, Gumba village, 2/4/80, no 8000ers
Ama Dablam, 2008 Pumori 1998 & 2005 (Korean, Austrian exp with Ernst Meschik)
Samden Bhote, aka Sonam Bhote, 25/79 (4/9/2036), Hungdung, Makalu, no 8000ers


Walter Laserer (Austria)
Thomas Arnold (Germany)
Bernadina Maria Notenboom (Austria)
Felix Stockenhuber (Austria)
Dagmar Wabnig (Austria)

Name: Laserer Alpin Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(14/04),C1(24/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6000m),C2(26/04,6400m),
C3(06/05,7200m),C4(22/05,7980m),Smt(23/05)
Left: 25/05/2009
Hired: 3
Term: Success

On 7 May, when Lhakpa Nuru from Phurte, Laserer and Notenboom were in the lower part of the Icefall, they were hit by an ice avalanche. Lhakpa Nuru's body was never found; he was probably buried under avalanche debris. Laserer and Notenboom were pushed by the avalanche about ten meters into a crevasse and found themselves upside down with Notenboom on top of Laserer. They shouted for help, and Pasang Sherpa with big Indian expedition responded. Laserer pushed Notenboom up while Pasang climbed down to her and pulled her out. Now it was possible to get to Laserer and Pasang and others pulled him out too. Laserer and Notenboom were not injured and were able to go on with their climb.

Laserer, Notenboom and Stockenhuber, plus two Sherpas, Lhakpa Nuru (from Khumjung) and Tenzing Dorje, made their bid for the summit when they left C4 for the top on 22 May at 9:30 pm. Stockenhuber turned back at 8200m on the 22nd because his fingers and toes were cold, while the others continued to the summit at 7:30 am on the 23rd. They returned to C4 at 11:30 am, descended to C2 on the 24th and BC on the 25th.

On their way from C4 to the top, Laserer and Notenboom found the American summiter Mike Farris, who was seriously affected by cerebral edema. They pushed him to a safer spot and put his warm clothes back on him and radioed Russell Brice to send up Sherpas to rescue him.

Stockenhuber, with Arnold and Wabnig, left BC on the 25th: they had no chance of summiting and the weather was not good. Laserer and Notenboom left on the 26th following their summit success.

Non-summiting members:

Arnold reached C4 with Laserer and Notenboom on 22 May, but did not join them in their summit bid because he didn't like the strong wind that was blowing.

Wabnig reached only the bergschrund at about 6800m at the bottom of the Lhotse Face on 5 May and never went higher. He had a breathing problem.

Oxygen was used by Laserer, Notenboom, Arnold and Stockenhuber in C3 to their high points; Laserer and Notenboom continued to use it until they returned to C2. The Sherpa summiters used it from C4 to the top to C4.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Nuru, 18/1/91 (4/10/2047), Khumjung, no 8000ers
Lhakpa Nuru, 21/5/75, Phurte, Khumbu, Everest 21/5/07
Tenzing Dorje, 19/11/70, Phortse, Everest X3


Henry Voigt (Germany)

Name: None
Camps: BC(15/04,5380m),C1(28/04,6100m),C2(29/04,6400m),C3(01/05,7300m),
xxx(01/05,7300m)
Left: 19/05/2009
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7300m due to illness

High point at 7300m.

Voigt summit push target was 21 May. He was in C2. On 17 May he told that he remembered going to sleep on 17 May evening. On 18 May morning a Sherpa found Voigt lying unconscious about two meters away from his tent. Sherpas helped him to go to C1. He was unconscious and vomiting, very weak. Sometimes he could walk and sometimes Sherpas carried him to C1. Dawa Steven gave him oxygen. He felt better and walked to BC by himself. He was using oxygen in BC too. Dawa Steven slept in his tent with him. HRA doctors advised him to leave BC. On 19 May he was evacuated to Kathmandu by helicopter. When I met him he was Ok. He could not tell me how and when he went out of his tent. Earlier on 20 April Voigt had toothache. HRA clinic doctor gave him medicines but it was not effective. He went to Namche on 23 April from BC. On 24 April his wisdom tooth (right) extracted in Namche clinic. He went back to BC on 27 April and to C1 on 28 April [and then up to C3 on 1 May].

He was supposed to leave Kathmandu on 25 or 30 May.

Assigned Sherpa:
Tenzing Dorje Sherpa, 19/11/70 (04/08/2027), Phortse, Khumjung-9, Everest X3

Tenzing Dorje later summited with Walter Laserer and Bernadina Notenboom and is listed with that team for summiting.


Yuri Pritzker (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(17/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6100m),C2(23/04,6400m),C3(05/05,7200m),
C4(20/05,8000m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/2009
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Pritzker and Thukten Dorje started from C4 at 9:15 pm of 20 May. They reached summit at 4:33 am of 21 May. Pritzker and Thukten spent 45 minutes on summit, then descended to C4 where they arrived at 8:30 am. They had rest for a while then descended to C2 where they arrived at 6:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather on South Summit little windy. Pritzker returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 1 June.

Sherpas:
Thukten Dorje, 30/06/68, Thami, Everest X6
Nima Kancha, 19/7/75, Pare, Everest 18/5/06


Mogens Jensen (Denmark)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/04,5300m),C1(22/04,6000m),C2(23/04,6500m),C3(21/05,7100m),
xxx(22/05,7750m)
Left: 25/05/2009
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 7750m due to symptoms of pulmonary edema

High point below Geneva Spur.

It was suppose to be the summit push for Jensen. He started from C3 at about 6 am on 22 May with Pemba. At 7750m where they reached around 9 am, Jensen felt difficulty in breathing. The initial symptom of PED (pulmonary edema) and he decided to turn around. Arrived C2 around 2 pm, slept there. Next day to BC.

Sherpa:
Pemba Tshering Sherpa, 18/4/79, Khumjung, Everest X2, Lhotse X1


Krushnaa Patil (India)

Name: None
Camps: BC(20/04,5330m),C1(27/04,6200m),C2(28/04,6400m),C3(19/05,7200m),
C4(20/05,7950m),C4(20/05,7950m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 25/05/2009
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Patil, Pasang and Gyaluk started from C4 at 9 pm on 20 May. They reached summit at 6:30 am on 21 May, stayed on summit between 30-40 minutes, descended to C4 at 12:40 pm, slept there. On 22 May to C2 and on 23 May to BC. During the ascent the weather was good but little windy. Climbers ahead of Patil were less than 100 and behind were were about 30 climbers. Patil returned to Kathmandu on 28 May and will leave on 1 June.

Patil is 1st Maharashtrian girl and 2nd youngest Indian to summit Everest.

Sherpas:
Pasang Temba Sherpa, 27/1/70 (14/10/2026), Thami
Gyaluk Lama, 21/8/75, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2


Unassigned climbing Sherpas:
Naga Dorje Sherpa (Sirdar)
Pemba Tenzing Sherpa
Ang Mingma Sherpa
Nima Tshering Sherpa
Phurba Jangbu Sherpa