원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
1st C3 at top of West Shoulder
2nd C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at S Col.

21st Sept from Cwm climbed directly to top of shoulder, not in curving line of US 1963; did not go above C3 because several days snowfall brought half-meter fresh snow; strong wind followed and feared danger of avalanches and wind in Hornbein Couloir and also now realized team not strong enough.

27th Sept changed route to normal route and 1 member slept at Col on 30th Sept hoping to go to summit next day but wind too strong and all down to BC. 5th Oct up to C2 (3 members and 3 Sherpas). 6th Oct from C2 to Col; 1 Sherpa went back, 1 Sherpa at Col in support and 1 Sherpa to top next day with the 3 members; at 4:00 am Stremfeljs, Jeglic and Lhakpa Rita (his 1st high summit) start up. 1:10 pm Mariya and Andrej Stremfelj summit; 1:35 pm Janez Jeglic on top; all down to C3 at 7:00 pm (Lhakpa Rita on down to C2).

7th Oct Mazzoleni and Arjun Tamang arrived at Col in evening and 8th reached 8100m (Tamang) and South Summit (Mazzoleni) and turned back because strong wind; no more attempts for top although one Sherpa to C4 to bring down tent on 9th or 10th, but winds so strong he could not pack it.

BC 15 to 17th Oct by most of team (10 members). Sterni felt (or feared?) recurrence of problem with vertebrae broken last year and left BC 24th Sept, At same time 2 others left: Dr Infanti had to return to work and Petronio found mountain too big.

Mrs. Stremfelj: remarkable that after so many years, Everest climbed on same day by two married couples.

Jamnik 26 Oct: no attempt was made to reach Lhotse summit; "When they finished with Everest, that was finish."