원정 개요

BC at Hunku Drangka at river fork near "D" of Drangka
ABC/C1 at west side of lake south of Hunku Glacier "K"
C2 above headwall above West Col
C3 at flat area north of West Col
C4 at start of summit ridge
High point on SE Ridge.

Porters turned back and only 18 left to cross Mera La which meant triple carries to BC. Took one week out of climbing time and perhaps could have fixed summit ridge if had had this extra week's time. Made BC much lower than had wanted; only permanent fixed rope was 600 ft on head wall to West Col.

10th May 4 members made first summit attempt and reached 23,200 ft and were stopped by wall with soft steep snow. Would start up and slide back tried for long time trying to cross this 100 ft of snow in several ways; back to C4. 11th Hodge and Hooy to C1 and Finnigan on the 12th and Steffen on 13th.

Lane, Baldwin, Ongchu Lama and Bir Bahadur Tamang on 13th made second summit attempt and got to place with same problem and same results. 2 Nepalis to C1 same time while 2 Aussies down next day after abandoning idea of going for secondary snow peak.

3rd attempt by Hodge and Hooy: got to C2 14th and stayed there 3 nights, defeated by drifting deep snow; went to C3 but back same day.