원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Before tackling Everest, four members climbed Changtse, Everest's north summit. They were Bobok, Hanna, Mezova and Prinzyuk.

The large expedition sent its members and Sherpas to the top in just one group, who left C3 on 20 May at 7:30 pm (Chinese time). They were: Beloyvan, Bobok, Cannizzaro, Delaney, Gretzky, Hanna, Mezova, Podolyan, Prinzyuk, Sokov plus eight Sherpas: Dawa Tenjin, Mingma Gelu, Nima Ongdi, Nur Ching, Pemba Nurbu, Pemba Renjin, Renjen and Tenjin.

Delaney was a cancer survivor from 2006 and had told his family that he would climb no higher than C1's 7000m. But here he was a member of the summit party headed from the top. He had acclimatized quickly and was very strong.

He and Mingma Gelu with him, never made it to the top. They climbed to 8800m on the morning of 21 May, and then Delaney became so exhausted that he suddenly collapsed. He couldn't move up or down. He was attached to to the only fixed rope, so everyone behind him had to stop. He became blind, couldn't stand up.

Hanna and two Sherpas, descending from the summit, met them. They got Delaney to the bottom of the summit snowfield at the top of the Third Step at 8750m, and there Delaney literally dropped dead. The cause of his death is not known. His body was left where he died, wearing a red Mountain Hardwear down suit.

Meanwhile all other members of the summit party had gone to the top at 1:10 am to 2:00 am on 21st, and all returned to ABC between 6:00 pm and midnight.

Oxygen was used by the members from C1 to their high points to ABC. The Sherpas were on it from C2 to their high points to C1.

Sherpas:
Dawa Tenjen, Balakharka, Makalu-5
Mingma Gelu, 5/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1
Nima Ongdi, 19/2/79, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X1
Nur Ching, Balakharka, Makalu-5
Pemba Nurbu, Balakharka, Makalu-5
Pemba Rinjin, Balakharka, Makalu-5
Rinjen, 1/2/73, Balakharka, Makalu-5, Everest X6
Tenjin, 14/4/91, Balakharka, Makalu-5