원정 개요

1st C3 on Pillar
2nd C3 on Lhotse Shar
C4 at South Col
High point at via S Pillar.

On S Pillar, put C3 at 7100m on 12th Sept and during following 7 days fixed ropes to 7700m slightly to right of pillar. In this period 2 Sherpas hit by powdered avalanche and was left dangling on ropes and another was hit in ribs by falling block of ice (but resumed climb later on and reached col (Ang Rita from Thami, but not THE Ang Rita). On 19th avalanche covered the ropes, which could be pulled out, but the 5 clients were getting apprehensive about going up those lines so route changed to S Col (LO gave permission before ministry agreed).

US team claims that Batard team made extensive use of US C4 equipment without permission. Batard left quickly with others while Karl Huyberechts and Annie Dubois left without food at BC; US team fed them. US changed to S Col route by moving gear from pillar C3 directly across to Lhotse Face where pitched another C3 at 7400m (members traversed across, Sherpas down to Cwm and up). Col reached on 28th Sept and on 29th summit bid by Lowe and Culver reached only 100m above Col; Col now this morning abandoned by team because of strong winds. 30th Sept all to BC because of wind even at C2 and some snowfall.

On 2nd Oct Nelson with a US Sherpa, Lowe and Culver at C4 to make summit bid but had pulmonary edema on arrival and down sick.

On 4th Lowe, Culver and Salino of De La Ferriere expedition left C4 together at 9:00 am when wind stopped suddenly. Lowe pulled ahead of others and reached top about 1-1/2 hours ahead of them. [Lowe summited at 12:30 pm and Culver at 2 pm.]

Lowe reported tricky climbing beyond S Summit so Aprin and Ang Temba took ropes and left Col with De Camp and his 2 Sherpas from Batard expedition 5th Oct at 3:45 am; Aprin fixed ropes below S Summit and Hillary step. French Sherpas and Ang Temba on top 10:30 am, Aprin 10:40 am and De Camp 11:45 am. Aprin and Ang Temba to C2 same day.

On 7th Oct next summit bid from Col: Lowe and Fuller left Col later than successful climbers and turned back (Lowe not on oxygen to 8100m only, Fuller to 8350-8400m and down because felt lonely, unable to catch up with others). Gibson, Krasnokutsky and Pinzo Sherpa left Col at 5:30 am and were on summit at 2:30 pm, used fixed ropes and moving cautiously with Pinzo carrying extra oxygen for Gibson; she had total of 3 bottles available. Pinzo reaching summit at 12:30 pm? All summiters down to C4 and Lowe and Fuller to C2. Gibson and husband to C2 on 8th and BC 9th Oct.

Sherpas up on 9th to C2 and some to C4 on 10th to clear camps. All off mountain on 10th evening and 5 members left BC 11th (others had left on 8th and 9th).