원정 개요

After having established BC on 12 May, the team went to nearby Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. In two groups, three members and two Sherpas summited on 17 May and four more members and two other Sherpas went to the top on the 22nd.

Then back to Everest and four high camps above it. Funahashi left the team on 28 April, Hiroyuki told her she could not climb without her Japanese speaking Sherpa guide, whom she had fired, so she left.

C4 was established on 19 May, and that night, at 10:30 pm, the summit party set out from C4 for the top. They were eight members and seven Sherpas: Fesa, Frans, Ginting, Hiraoka, Kuraoka, Nabeshima, Sihombing and Toji, with Sherpas Ang Tshering, Dawa Temba, Dawa Tenjing, Gyalzen Dorji, Pasang Dawa, Pemba Gyalzen and Pemba Nuru.

At the bottom of the Hillary Step (8800m), Nabeshima was moving too slowly because he was not getting oxygen through the ice that had frozen on his mast, so at 11:30 am he and Dawa Temba retreated to C4, where they arrived at about 3:00 pm.

Ang Tshering also did not summit. He got a chest infestion, retreated and went to Khunde Hospital for treatment.

All the other members and Sherpas were on the summit on the 20th. The first arrivals were Kuraoka, Sihombing and Pemba Nuru at 5:12 am and they descended all the way to BC at 6:10 pm. The last were Hiraoka, Toji and Pasang Dawa at 12:00 noon, and they stopped at C4 at 3:00 pm.

Hiraoka, Nabeshima and Toji were too tired to descend farther than C2 on the 21st; five Sherpas (Gyalzen Dorje, Pasang Dawa, Dawa Tenjing also stayed that night in C2 because they were packing up camp. Everyone was in BC on the 22nd.

The members used oxygen from C3 to their high points to C2. Their Sherpas used it in their summit bid from C2 (they did not sleep in C3) to C4 to their high points to and in C4.

Three Sherpas had health problems. Dawa Tenjing and Pemba Gyalzen had very sore legs. As already noted, Ang Tshering got a chest infection.

Sherpas:
Ang Tshering/Ang Chhiring, 1952, Phortse, Everest X3
Dawa Temba, 1959, Thamo
Dawa Tenjing, 1981, Khumjung
Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88 (5/11/2044), Phortse
Pasang Dawa, 1981, Khumjung
Pemba Gyalzen, 1975, Phortse
Pemba Nuru, 27/11/80, Khumjung, Everest X2