원정 개요

This big expedition made a single push for the top. The summit party left C3 on 25 May in four groups totaling 11 members and nine Sherpas between 9:00 pm and 10:30 pm (NST). The members were Arumugum, Atkinson, Green, Healey, Poulton, Robertson, Salam, Stewart, Szymiec, Thackwray and Walsh. The Sherpas with them were: Ang Phurba, Dawa Dorje, Dorje Khatri, Kul Bahadur Magar, Mingma Drukpa, Mingma Gyabu, Nurbu Bhote, Pasang Wangchu and Sonam Dorje.

One of the summit party did not get all the way to the top. Salam turned around at 8500m with Mingma Drukpa, 200 meters above C3, because he was too cold. He retreated to C2 that day and to ABC on the 27th.

All others reached the summit on 26 May between 6:30 am (Arumugum, Stewart and Szymiec with two Sherpas, Dorje Khatri and Ang Phurba), and 9:45 am (Atkinson, Healey, Poulton and three Sherpas, Sonam Dorje, Nurbu Bhote Lama and Mingma Gyabu), in weather the leader described as "gorgeous."

Walsh went back to C3 at 4:00 pm, while Healey and Poulton with two Sherpas were in C3 an hour later. Green got pulmonary edema, and Szymiec went down with him to C1, where they arrived at 2:00 am, and to ABC at 3:00 am on the 27th. The remaining summiters stopped in C2 at 7:00 pm of the 26th. All were in ABC on the 27th.

Other non-summiting members:

Carter reached C3 on the 25th with the summit party, but he was tired and too slow. He went back to C2 on summit party, the 26th.

Geluk and Knighton climbed to 7400m with the team enroute to C2 on 24 May, ran out of steam, turned around and descended to ABC.

Manassie turned around at 8000m due to kidney failure and was evacuated to Kathmandu according to Poulton and Syzmiec.

Besides Green's edema, the only other health problem was Thackwray's frostbite in seven fingers which he got on his way to the summit. He descended to C2 on the 26th, to ABC on the 27th, to BC on the 28th, and was back in Kathmandu on the 29th.

Oxygen was used by the Sherpas from C2 to the summit to C2. Member's use was as follows: Atkinson, Geluk, Healey, Knighton, Manassie, Salam, Szymiec and Stewart from C1 to their high points to C2, except for Geluk and Knighton, plus Green, who used it down to C1.

Sherpas:
Ang Phurba, 25/11/85, Makalu, Sankhuwasabha
Dawa Dorje, 22/8/83, Pangboche, Everest X2
Dorje Khatri, 19/12/68, Lelep, Taplejung, Everest X5
Kul Bahadur Magar, 31/7/70, Taluwa-9, Okhaldhunga, Everest X2
Mingma Gyabu, 16/5/89, Lelep-7, Taplejung, Everest X1
Mingma Dupka, 29/6/80, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X1
Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X3
Pasang Wangchu, Taplejung, Everest X1 [??]
Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86, Pangboche, Everest X3