원정 개요

The Asian Trekking International Everest expedition was a combination of several independent teams (1-2 climbers each). Asian Trekking provided transportation, base camp facilities and various levels of high-altitude support (oxygen, high-altitude porters, tents, etc) as required and contracted for by each team. The individual accounts for each team are given below:


William Burke (USA)
David Liano (Mexico)

Name: None
Camps: BC(12/04,5304m),ABC(19/04,6187m),C1(17/05,6706m),C2(18/05,7772m),
C3(19/05,8382m),xxx(20/05,8687m)
Left: 23/05/11
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8687m due to inadequate supply of oxygen to continue

Burke and Liano planned to climb Everest from both sides and also to climb Lhotse in Spring 2011. Liano suffered from headache and neck pain at ABC on 20 April. He returned to Kathmandu and had treatment at Norvic. He went to climb Everest on the south side. Burke continued his attempt on the north side of Everest.

Burke and his climbing Sherpa left C3 at 8:30 pm NST on 19 May for the summit. They reached the First Step (28,500 ft) at 1 am of 20 May. There was not enough oxygen to continue, so they decided to turn around and returned C3 where they reached at 3:30 am. They spent the night there. Next day 21 May they went down to ABC. Burke did not go to south side of Everest.

Sherpa:
Phura Gyalzen, 16/04/1970 (2027), Namche-9
Mingma (Dorje) (also climbed with Burke on summit day)


William Holland (USA)

Name: Long Way to the Top Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(15/04,5750m),ABC(20/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7000m),C2(03/05,7700m),
C3(11/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
Left: 29/05/11
Hired: 0
Term: Success

BC at CBC/IC on 19 April at 5800m.

Holland started his summit push from ABC to C2 on 24 May. He arrived C3 on 25 May. He left C3 at 11:45 pm (NST) of 25 May and reached summit at 7:45 am of 26 May. Holland stayed on summit for about 45 minutes without oxygen. He descended to C3 between 2-3 pm, very tired. He spent the night at C3. Next day 27 May went down to C2 and on 28 May to ABC and continued to ABC. On summit there were Canadians and members of Adventure Peaks and some Sherpas. On summit he asked one of the Sherpas to take his photo. Sherpa asked Holland 200 dollars for taking the snap shot. It was "disgusting" attitude of the Sherpa.

(Holland was deported from Nepal in 2008 for having a Tibetan flag on Everest).


Douglas Scarborough (USA)

Name: None
Camps: BC(12/04,5303m),ABC(19/04,6188m),C1(17/05,6706m),C2(18/05,7772m),
C3(19/05,8382m),xxx(20/05,8565m)
Left: 23/05/11
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8565m due to inadequate supply of bottled oxygen

Scarborough wrote in his email that they [he] turned around at 28,100 ft, 5 hours after setting off from C3. [Ngima Dorje continued onto the summit with Elmezov.]

Sherpa:
Ngima Dorje Sherpa, 31/8/84 (15/5/2041), Namche-6
Phura Nuru (also climbed with Scarborough on summit day)


Ivan Schmid (Switzerland)

Name: Adventure Alternative 2011 to Everest
Camps: BC(18/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,6300m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7600m),
C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 24/05/11
Hired: 1
Term: Success

BC at CBC/IC on 23 April at 5800m.

Schmid and Pemba Nuru started their summit bid at 11:20 pm on 20 May from C3. Pemba Nuru had to turn around from 8750m due to a problem in the oxygen regulator. Schmid continued his climb and got to the top at 6:20 am on 21 May. He spent about an hour on the top, then descended to C3 at 11 am and spent the night there. Next day on 22 May went down all the way to ABC. The summit day weather was very good. There were about 10 climbers ahead of Schmid. He also saw about 10-15 climbers coming up from south side.

Sherpa:
Pemba Nuru Sherpa, 17/1/1977, Thamiteng, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X6


Leonardo Fernandez (Mexico)

Name: None
Camps: BC(18/04,5400m),ABC(24/04,6400m),C1(28/04,7000m),C2(19/05,7600m),
C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 26/05/11
Hired: 0
Term: Success

CBC/IC on 23 April at 5800m.

Fernandez started from C3 at 9:30 pm NST on 20 May. He reached the top at 9 am on 21 May. Fernandez stayed on summit for 45 minutes and descended to C3, where he arrived at 1 pm. He spent the night there. Next day 22 May went down to C1 and on 23 May to ABC. Ahead of Fernandez there were 3 climbers; later about 10-12 other climbers came up. The summit day weather was very good.

Fernandez frostbite (right-hand ring and little fingers); he took off glove to take pictures and video on the summit; he realized frostbite at C3 on descent.


Martin Byrne (Ireland)

Name: Irishman to Everest
Camps: BC(17/04,5200m),ABC(22/04,6400m),C1(25/04,7100m),C2(19/05,7900m),
C3(20/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
Left: 30/05/11
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Before attempting Everest, Byrne and his two Sherpas climbed a 3500m peak near the village of Nyalam on their way to BC.

Byrne's bid for the summit started from ABC by going up to C1 on 23 May, climbing to C2 on the 24th and to C3 on the 25th. He and his Sherpas had earlier occupied all these camps, but the weather was unfavourable for a summit bid until now.

Byrne and one Sherpa, Lhakpa, left C3 for the top at 10:00 pm (NST) on 25 May. They summited at 11:30 am of the 26th and returned to C3 at 6:00 pm that evening. They descended all the way to ABC on the 27th and were in BC on the 28th waiting for the yaks to bring down their baggage.

Both Byrne and Lhakpa used oxygen on their summit push from 7400m to the top to C1.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/12/73, Rawadole-1, Okhaldhunga
Ngima Sherpa, 18/3/80 (5/12/2036), Bishinga-8, Okhaldhunga


Niklas Hallstrom (Sweden)

Name: None
Camps: BC(07/05,5200m),ABC(09/05,6400m),C1(10/05,7050m),C2(19/05,7600m),
C3(20/05,8100m),xxx(20/05,8300m)
Left: 26/05/11
Hired: 1
Term: Abandoned at 8300m due to leg thrombosis and vomiting

The first attempt for the summit was on May 20, but Hallstrom had to abandon the climb due to leg thrombosis from which he suffered on May 19. On May 20, he started his descent and reached C2 on the same day. On May 21, he reached the base camp.

Before attempting Everest, he had tried Xixabangma, but had to abandon the climb due to an avalanche on May 12.

Sherpa:
Fur Tenji, Jubing-5, 1/5/68


Abdul Elmezov (Russia)

Name: Russian on Everest
Camps: BC(12/04,6300m),ABC(21/04,6400m),C1(29/04,7000m),C2(18/05,7750m),
C3(19/05,8300m),Smt(20/05)
Left: 25/05/11
Hired: 1
Term: Success

Elmezov reached the summit at 6 am (NST) on May 20, after starting from C3 at 8 pm on May 19. The weather at the summit was very good, so he spent 30 minutes in the summit. Reached C3 from the summit at 11 pm on May 20 and then to C2 on the same day at 3 pm. He spent the night at C2. On May 21, started to descend to ABC in the morning and reached ABC at 1 pm. From there he reached the base camp on May 23 after spending 2 days at the ABC.

Sherpa:
Nima Dorje Sherpa, Namche-5, Thamo, Everest X3, 2007 (north side),
2010 (north side), 2011 (north side)


Clemens Strauss (Austria)
Joeseph Uitz (Austria)

Name: The Jomolungma-Project-Datti Sports to Everest
Camps: BC(19/04,5150m),ABC(04/05,6400m),C1(11/05,7660m),C2(24/05,7700m),
xxx(25/05,8000m)
Left: 31/05/11
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 8000m due to storm and too slow

BC at CBC/IC on 3 May at 5780m.

Strauss and Uitz set off from C2 at 11 am for C3. They arrived at 7850m around 1:30 pm. They thought they were too slow to reach C3 and turned around to C2 where they arrived at around at 2:30 pm. On 25 May they started to climb up at 8:30 am. When they arrived at 8000m at about 1:30 pm there started a storm and snowfall. They realized that they could not reach C3 in a reasonable time in that weather condition and turned around to C2 where they arrived at around 3 pm and spent the night there. They waited for the storm to subside until 9 am next day. But it did not do so. So they decided to give up their attempt for summit and descended to ABC.


Zoltan Benedek (Austria)
Ildiko Benedek (Austria)

Name: Two Austrians to Everest
Camps: BC(23/04,5160m),ABC(28/04,6400m),C1(30/04,7000m),C2(20/05,7700m),
xxx(25/05,8650m)
Left: 28/05/11
Hired: 0
Term: Abandoned at 8650m due to cold feet, frostbite

The team tried for a summit push on 21 May. They left C2 at 3 am. The weather was good, however, when Ildiko Benedek reached 8050m, she was too tired to carry on. They turned back at around 7 am and descended to C2 where they arrived at around noon. The next day they carried on to ABC. Ildiko decided to remain at ABC and not to join her husband for a second summit attempt, as he was too exhausted.

Zoltan Benedek left C2 at 3 am on 25 May. He was completely on his own and had to break trail as there was new snow. He felt good and strong, however, when he reached 8650m he noticed that his feet and hands were too cold. He was just before the Second Step when he decided to turn back due to his cold toes. It was about 3 pm. He descended to C2, where he arrived at 6:30 pm. When he too his shoes off, he noticed that he had frostbite on three toes at the right foot. He stayed the night there and on 26 May he descended to ABC.

Zoltan Benedek suffered frostbite on right foot.


Helmut Ortner (Austria)

Name: None
Camps: BC(14/05,5200m),ABC(18/05,6400m),C2(20/05,7700m),Smt(21/05)
Left: 26/05/11
Hired: 0
Term: Success

Ortner's summit push started from ABC on 20 May and he arrived C2 directly. Next day 21 May he left C2 at 3 am and reached the top at 3 pm. He stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C3 where he reached at 6 pm, and slept in a Sherpa tent. Next day 22 May he left C3 at 6 am and arrived ABC at 4 pm. On 23 May he came down to CBC. The summit day weather was sunny and warm but the night was very windy and very cold.

Also summited Xixabangma alone on 6 May.


Esteban Barahona (Canada)
Philip Peter Bota (Canada)
Manuel Pizarro (Canada)

Name: Climb for Heart & Stroke Everest Expedition
Camps: BC(06/05,5334m),ABC(10/05,6096m),C1(23/05,7000m),C2(24/05,7700m),
C3(25/05,8300m),Smt(26/05)
Left: 29/05/2011
Hired: 2
Term: Success

Bota, Pasang Namgyal and Phurba Temba Sherpa started their summit push from C3 at 9 pm NST on 26 May. They arrived at the top at 7:38 and stayed on summit about 20 minutes, then descended to C3 at 11:30 am and to ABC at 6 pm. Next day 27 May went down to CBC. The summit day weather was perfect clear sky, sunny, no wind.

Barahona got frostbite at around 7400m during acclimatization on 20 May (index finger, middle finger purple color).

Manuel Pizarro suffered heart problems while acclimatizing in the Khumbu and did not accompany the team to Tibet.

Sherpas:
Pasang Namgyal Sherpa
Phurba Temba Sherpa
Nima Kancha (also climbed with Barahona)


Antoine Cina (Switzerland)

Name:
Camps: BC(11/05,5050m),ABC(6400m),C1(7000m)
Left:
Hired:
Term: Unsuccessful

Intention was a paraglide from the summit of Everest.

Turned around at 7600m due to problems with eye sight.