원정 개요

C4 at 7560m 80m above of International Expedition and the Russian Expedition.

Fixed rope: 500m contributed to Mingma's team.

The French team's summit push started from C4 at 22:00 on 18 May in light snowfall. The team consisted of Phu Dorchi, Pemba, Pasang Tendi, Dawa Nurbu, Rosset, Zuberer, Gatta, Haehlen and Challeat. All except Gatta were without supplementary oxygen.

Challeat wrote in his email that before the summit push he talked to Mingma (Seven Summits Trekking International Expedition) at BC that his members were unable to make the track and only Sherpas worked. French team and Mingma agreed to break the trail to summit together. Challeat further added that when the started on the 18 May nobody from other expedition were there to go with the French team. When the French team reached at 8000m after four hours climb, trail was in deep snow and there was no track. Further up from 8200m, the slope became steeper (40 degrees to 45 degrees) and the snow was hard and there was no fixed ropes. At that point Zuberer thought that it could be dangerous to continue to summit and to come down without any fixed rope. So she decided to go down and descended with Pemba Sherpa.

At 8200m, Alexei Bolotov (Russian Expedition) joined the French team and followed the team. Rosset continued up to the end of the couloir (8300m) and decided to turn around because he was very tired and thought that it may be very difficult to go to summit and to return. Challeat continued with Gatta and Sherpas behind them were Bolotov and Haehlen.

Challeat team reached summit at 9 am. There was no wind but heavy cloud over the summit. After 10 minutes Bolotov arrived. They had snap shots on the summit. Challeat stayed 15 minutes on the top and started his descent followed by everybody. He met Haehlen on short rappel (5m) 10 minutes below the summit. He got to the summit around 9:40 am. Challeat team got down to C4 after three hours. They kept going. On 19 May he went down to C2 with Zuberer and Rosset. The Challeat team went down to BC on the 20th May.

Wojcik was sick and didn't go above 6800m.

Tornay was sick; she climbed up to C4 on the 17 May, but went down to C2 on 18 May and BC on the 19 May.

Sherpas:
Pasang Tendi Sherpa, 30/7/88 (15/04/2045), Namche-9
Dawa Nurbu Sherpa, 26/6/82 (12/03/2039), Namche-9
Phu Dorchi Sherpa, 30/4/82 (17/01/2039), Makalu-5
Pemba Sherpa, 4/9/71 (19/5/2028), Taksindu-6