원정 개요

BC at glacier SE of point 6130m.

7 members left BC Sept 27 because their time ran out. Rest of team rested in BC to Sept 29, when 5 members and 4 Sherpas left BC to make another summit bid. Sept 30 to C1, Oct 1 to C2 (2 Sherpas down to C1). Oct 2 C3 made by 3 members and 2 Sherpas. Oct 3 Zamora Barra noticed feet freezing and stayed in C3 with 1 Sherpa while other 2 Spaniards and Lhakpa Sherpa went for top starting at 3:30 am in deep snow. Climbing last couloir's 150m took more than 5 hrs in chest-deep snow; arrived on summit at 4:10 pm climbing final sharp snow ridge 20m (strode ridge like riding a house); back to C3 6:30 pm and slept there. Oct 4 all 5 men reached BC. Oct 11 2 members to KTM by helicopter and quickly to Spain and hospital where Bros stayed few days and Zamora one or 2 months; others left BC 7th Oct.

This 1st 8000m summit for Lhakpa Sherpa.

1st summit attempt was on Sept 17.


Prunes - 5 Oct 1990

Returned KTM early Oct (3 & 4 Oct) because 4 had to go back to work and 2 had wives trekking in Nepal. French member never reached BC because of news from family at home.

BC 26 Aug 5900m
ABC 29 Aug just under 7000m
C1 5 Sept

9 Sept reached ridge at 7500m. Intended set a camp at 7600m but then bad weather and summit attack team wanted a higher camp. 16 Sept C2 7800m just below North Face couloir. 17 Sept 1st attack from C2 at 2 am by Angles Soler, Capdevilla and Sorolla Oliva. Weather too bad; snow deep to waist and could see nothing; at 10 am had climbed up couloir and reached 8050m; 3 pm reached foot of last wall at 8240m and snow to chest and they returned to C2; next day 18th all in BC.

2 more summit bids prepared by 7 members and 3 Sherpas. 1st group to C2 on 23 Sept and on 24th took 2 hours to more 100m traverse in chest-deep snow and 2 avalanches so retreated. 2nd group never reached C2 because all again to BC.

27th 6 members left BC. Others hoped to make attempt in early Oct.