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Alpine Ascents International (AAI) Everest & Lhotse Expedition 2011

Everest · 2011 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

Horst and Hart left C4 at 11:45 pm on 13 May. It was very windy (40m/h), however, when they reached the Balcony the wind had abated and they carried on. They reached the summit at 9:30 am. Good views. They spent about 10 minutes on the summit and returned to C4, where they arrived at 1:30 pm. They both slept and even though both wanted to climb Lhotse, Hart decided that Everest was enough for him. At midnight Horst left C4 to summit Lhotse. He went the traditional route via Lhotse C4 and summited on 15 May at 5:30 am. The AAI Sherpas fixed 600m on Lhotse on 14 May; however, the last 200m to the summit were not fixed and Horst had to use old rope. He spent about half an hour on the summit and descended to C2, where he arrived at 10 am. The next day he descended to BC. Horst decided to go back to climb Nuptse with Madison and Max Bunce from IMG. He took a helicopter back to BC and arrived there at 23 May.

19 May summit team left 9:30 pm on 18 May. It was windy (Adventure Consultants and Mountain Trip also went that day). Lhakpa Rita and a Sherpa from AC had to break trail as there was fresh snow. Once the team got high, the wind abated and it turned out to be the perfect day. They stayed on the summit for one hour. They descended to C4, where they arrived at noon the same day.

On the same day, Kami Rita Sherpa, Madison and Halliday departed from the South Col at 9:45 pm to summit Lhotse. They went the traditional way (via Lhotse C4) and summited Lhotse at 4:20 am. They waited for it to get light and left the summit around 5 am. They descended to C2, where they arrived at 2 pm. The following day, everyone descended to BC. The clients left BC on 22 May by helicopter, while Madison and Horst stayed to climb Nuptse together with Bunce.

Oxygen:
Taken and used from C3 to top to C2 by members, apart from Halliday and Gibbons,
who started using oxygen at C2 to top to C2.
Sherpas from C4 to top to C4.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Rita, Thami, 9/9/66, Everest X12
Tshering Dorje, Kharikhola, 20/7/70, Everest X12
Dawa Nuru, Thami, 25/11/64, Everest X3
Ang Pasang, Thami, 19/6/67, Everest X10
Mingma Dorje, Waku-4, 28/5/69, Everest X4
Mingma Chhiring, Thami, 22/7/1968, Everest X12

  • 내부 원정 ID7150
  • 원본 EXPIDEVER11149
  • 대장Garrett Madison
  • 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도8849m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 15명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Garrett Christian MadisonUSALeader성공사용-
Benjamin Mason (Ben) JonesUSADeputy Leader성공사용-
Michael Wayne GibbonsUSAClimber성공사용-
Thomas HallidayUSAClimber성공사용-
Robert William (Rob) HartS AfricaClimber성공사용-
James Michael HorstUSAClimber성공사용-
Louis John MariorenziUSAClimber성공사용-
Gary James NelsonUSAClimber성공사용-
Lloyd Marshall WarrenUSAClimber성공사용-
Ang Pasang SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Dawa Nuru (Da Nuru) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Lhakpa Rita SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Chhiri/Chhiring SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Mingma Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Tshering Dorje SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

출처·참고문헌

http://www.alpineascents.com/everest-cybercast11.asp · 2011 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11s/newswire-speed-everest-lhotse · 2011 · 웹사이트 (5) ·