원정 개요

BC at Barun Glacier's east side around from normal high BC
C1 at Chago Glacier where it gets steep
Biv1 at Chago Glacier steep section
Biv2 at Chago Glacier before entering Messner couloir
Biv3 at Makalu La (high point).

From C1 started alpine-style climb (but Sherpas made deposits). Had 3 bivouacs above C1. Spent Oct 3rd to 15th at C1 acclimatizing with brief rest at BC for 2 days.

Expedition divided into separate climbing groups led by Vadasz and Ritchie. Vadasz group had 7 members at start (Burch, Farkas, Jonelis, Riggs, Schapera, Vadasz, Mrs Vadasz) but Jonelis went home and Farkas transferred to Ritchie group.

Vadasz group made three bivouacs at 6650m, 6980m and 7400m. High winds stopped group on Oct 18 at 7400m. Oct 18th instead of going for summit when down at 1 pm when winds did not drop from 60 mph (with gusts up to 100 mph) and then went down to C1 to watch winds. When winds did not decrease but increased decided to stop. In BC waited even longer and watched winds.

Ritchie group got no higher than 23,000 ft (7000m) in couloir on 16th Oct and turned around because of wind, logistical problems and lack of strength. This party had 1 of the 3 Sherpas with them. They made own fixed C1 and C2 (their camps at same altitudes as Vadasz's group bivs) moving a day behind.

Both groups left BC on 25th Oct. LO refused to allow expedition to trek out over the cols (Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu) since this was not in the plan.