원정 개요

Camilo Rada - 12 Sept 2011 (by email)

We didn't hire any Sherpas above BC, just two porters to reach it. We went very light, with just one small tent, one rope and minimalistic camping and climbing equipment.

We made a first summit attempt on the 18th, but we were stopped by a huge crevasse that blocked the transit through the ridge. Old fixed ropes went across the crevasse hanging at several meters from the bottom. So we deduced that the crevasse was quite new, because the ropes were set when it didn't exist.

After rappelling and wasting time and energy trying to climb the crevasse wall, we found a way around it by going down to the west almost up to the rock. We went down to C2 and the following day we started earlier and followed that route. Then we went around a couple of more crevasses, which involved climbing in hard snow up to 70-degrees steep.

When we finished the ridge and reached the plateau under the summit, clouds covered the mountain, so the final walk to the summit and the way back to camp was done with very bad visibility.

We arrived back at camp at 9:00 pm after a 15.5 hour summit push.