원정 개요

BC just out of southeast end of Hunku Tang Glacier
Deposit south of big lake Chamlang Tso.

North Pillar not possible to climb because it rises from big lake. Made deposit camp 8th Oct and then through Mera La and climbed Mera Peak for acclimatization. Reached its summit on 11th Oct. 12th to Chamlang BC and 14th Ottl and Weisner left BC (these members had not gone to Mera Peak) because of altitude sickness while other 4 stayed at BC with 30 cm fresh snow falling. 15th Oct 4 to deposit camp and 16th onto NNW Face to 5900m and back to BC after finding snow too deep. 17th Oct rested at BC and all 4 18th climbed to deposit camp (or C1). 19th 2 men climbed NNW face to 6200m to C2 where left big tent and on 20th went to C3 at 6600m at ridge. From here believe they joined Japanese route to summit on W Face. 21st 2 men to summit at around 10:00 am and down to C2. Next day all 4 in BC.

Slight difficulty on 50-55 degrees ice (some 70 degrees) but nothing serious and used 2 ropes only for rapelling down. Women were load carriers for their men; not enough time for them to climb since Mera Peak finished later than planned because of snowfall and 2 members had left. Left BC 23rd Oct and returned via Amphu Laptsa to Khumbu.