원정 개요

Three members reached C2 on 26 Oct. Clauzet and Wellner returned to BC next day due to illnesses and Santos waited for two days to try for summit with two Spaniards (Pallares and Mompel?). When Spaniards decided not to make the summit attempt, Santos also returned to BC not wanting to continue alone on an apparent difficult and dangerous route.

In late October, the three Brazilians and the Dane Jacob Klaris-Jensen attempted the N Face (Santos and Klaris to try for the summit with Clauzet and Wellner in support). Santos and Klaris reached 5600m from their 5100m camp, but gave up due loose falling rock and the potential onset of bad weather.


Mauricio Clauzet (email) - 3 Oct 2011

Reason for stopping summit push:

Demotivated with the dirty, rubbish and sanitary conditions of Camp 1 and 2, as well as too many ropes everywhere and also old ropes left behind. Base camp also had rubbish around, even inside the stream where you take water. We don't like to climb in a place like that. Over crowded as well. No conditions to have only 7 tents spots in Camp 2 and more than 15 comercial expeditions with many members to climb.

When we arrived in Camp 1 and 2, there were no more places to tents, but no people. All commercial expeditions saved places for their commercial members. The tents were there, but the clients haven't even arrived to BC. Second time we had been to Camp 2 it was smelling like a bad public toilet. Hard to get clean snow (with no feces and urine) to make water. I had also digestive system problem because of bad snow in high camps.

Other comments:

What people called "the crown", a huge serac hanging out from summit is there just because an uncountable set of old fixed ropes left behind over the years. In an attached picture you can see "the crown" with many old ropes appearing from it. People that had summited told us that there is a set of old ropes tensioned like guitar strings in a crevasse on the summit, holding "the crown."

I'll never return to Ama Dablam, and maybe never to climb again in Nepal. Money hass been far more important than the mountain itself, the nature and the environment. This mountain is still beautifull from far away. When you look closer, it's ugly and dirty. Very bad.