원정 개요

Charlotte Lycett Green - 7 Sep 2011 (by email)

BC arrival date: 12.12.10
C1 arrival date: 13.12.10
C2 arrival date: 14.12.10
High point date: 15.12.10 (altitude 6600m approx)
BC departure date: 16.12.10

Reason for stopping summit push:

Although well acclimatised from trekking to Kalapattar, Everest Base Camp and over Kongma La Pass, I found it difficult to fuel sufficiently for the effort required at this altitude. Tshering Pande Bhote made the decision for us to attempt to summit from C2, due to possible impending bad weather and to minimise our time on the mountain, which was the most sensible option.

We were involved with the rescue of a Swiss National, who had HACE and HAPE, while we were having a rest day a few days previously; this made me particularly cautious and undoubtedly contributed to my decision to turn back.

Route details:

Generally in good condition, though not such good conditions as expected above C3. Temperatures in Pangboche were -16 C, which gives an idea of how cold it was at C1 and C2. We wore down suits from C2.

I believe ours was the first winter ascent of the season, and consequently there was nobody else on the mountain apart from us. BC was deserted. This created a truly magical experience and we were unhindered by queues, etc. that are a feature of the main season. There is incredible exposure on the Yellow Tower! Tshering, Lama Babu and Jabu were absolutely excellent throughout; their professionalism and ability was outstanding.

Hired:
Tshering Pande Bhote (to high point)
Lama Babu (to high point)
Jabu (to C2)