원정 개요

C2 at Everest C2
C3 at top of rock band
High point above arete.

After having climbed Everest and Lhotse, Madison and Horst hooked up with Max Bunce from IMG to climb Nuptse. The team left Everest BC on 24 May and on 25 May they did a carry to their high camp on Nuptse at 6800m (on top of a rock band below arete), which took them about nine hours return.

On 26 May they rested at Everest C2 and on 27 May they left C2 at 3 am and reached their high camp at 7:30 am. They set up camp, and Horst and Bunce started climbing up the arete at 9 am and got to about 7100m. They were fixing V-threads. They got back to camp at about 6 pm. They stayed the night at their camp and rested on 28 May.

On 29 May the team left high camp at 3:30 am. It was snowing and had been since the previous evening. The snow had slightly settled on the arete and the climb was harder than expected. It was about 50 degrees and blue bulletproof ice. They got to the top of the arete at about 10:30 am and climbed through the rock band and reached better terrain. Horst was looking for ice he could use for a belay but could not find loose rock and snow, so he decided that it was getting too dangerous and they turned back at noon.

They descended to their camp, mainly abseiling. However, they could not find their V-threads due to the new snow and had to fix new anchors to abseil. They reached high camp at 6 pm. While they were in their camp there was an avalanche from above the arete, which luckily did not hit them.

They slept for about two hours and left high camp at 11:22 pm to go back to Everest C2, where they arrived at 3:30 am. On 30 May they descended to BC. On 31 May, they left BC and reached Kathmandu on 2 June.