원정 개요

BC same as French this autumn
C3 100m below (on Tibetan side) of NW Ridge
High point at NW Ridge.

Followed normal route to normal C2 then took line safer from avalanches. After making his own C2, went down to rest at BC. Left BC up again on 19th Sept to C1; 20th to C2 and C1 on 21st (had carried load to C2) and 22nd down to BC for more supplies and 2-day rest. Then bad weather (snowfall) 25th and 26th so 4 days at BC. 27th to C1 and 28th to C2. 29th up to make C3 at 7800m on the ridge and on up to see which was best line to take ("I wanted to find a good way"), but Kukuczka route very steep rock and ice mixed. Stopped at 7900m, descended to C2 (left C3 in place). 30th down to BC for rest. 1-3 Oct at BC. 4th Oct up to C1; 5th to C2; 6th to Makalu La (normal C3) and slept French tent (day very windy and could not climb higher). 7th Oct returned to his own C1 and 8th to BC. 12th Oct to C1, 13th to C2. 14th morning big storm of new snow and old snow in strong wind and C2 tent destroyed by wind and so down ("of course"). Now bad weather with fierce wind and C2 tent destroyed and he was "very tired."

Were many people on route from BC to C1 and he climbed this very easy ropeless section with them. From La to C3 with French on 7th. Used no fixed rope - "I want to try again by Messner Couloir" to La.

C1 tent broken into by black birds and 2 weeks food taken in mid-Sept.