One Russian to Makalu
Makalu · 2011 · 봄 (1) · Russia
원정 개요
Team left C3 at 10 pm on 16 May for their summit attempt. It was very windy and cold. They followed the fixed rope, which was old rope from previous years in places. At about 8200m the fixed rope stopped completely. It was very steep but they carried on to 8400m. When they got there it was very windy and Morneva decided that she wanted to turn back as she felt unsafe carrying on without a rope to the summit. They turned back at around 10 am and descended to C3, where they arrived at 4 pm. They descended to BC the following day.
Oxygen:
From C2 to high point to C3 by Morneva.
From C3 to 8000m by Da Chhemba (his oxygen bottle was broken as a pin was
missing).
Sherpa:
Da Chhemba/Dachamba, Gudel-5, Solu, 2/3/68, Everest 22/5/03, 20/05/04, 16/05/07,
Cho Oyu 16/9/03, 21/05/05
(he says he also climbed Cho Oyu on 24/09/2009 with a Norwegian group and
with a Japanese group in autumn 2002)
- 내부 원정 ID7116
- 원본 EXPIDMAKA11101
- 대장Oxana Morneva
- 루트 (Route)Makalu La-NW Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8400m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유보급·장비 (8)
참가자 2명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oxana Morneva | Russia | Leader | - | 사용 | - |
| Da Chhemba (Dachhamba) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | 사용 | - |