Patagonian Brothers Everest Expedition 2011
Everest · 2011 · 봄 (1) · USA
원정 개요
After arriving at BC, the team went to nearby Lobuche East for an acclimatization climb. They reached its east shoulder about 19 or 20 April and then returned to Everest BC on the 23rd.
The expedition pitched their last on the South Col on 20 May, and their plan was to leave for the summit on the 21st, after a day of rest. But Dawa Gyalzen unexpectedly got ahead of the rest of the team and went to the summit on the 20th by himself.
The rest of the group mounted their bid for the summit on 20 May, when five members and five Sherpas left C4 at 10:15 pm. They were Al Houby, Damian Benegas, Erroz, McLean and Lally, plus Sherpas Dawa Temba, Mingma Tenji, Pasang Nima, Pasang Nima, Pasang Tendi and Phura Gyalzen.
They all arrived at the top together at 8:30 am on the 21st and stayed in C4 from 1:00 am till the next morning, when they went down to C2, except for McLean, who descended all the way to BC that day (he got to BC at 4:00 pm).
But Damian Benegas and Erroz didn't return to C2 until after midnight: they were delayed by taking part in the rescue of Lhotse Spanish climbers Manuel (Lolo) Gonzalez, Roberto Rodrigo and Ms Maria Garcia. All joined McLean in BC on the 23rd.
McLean got mild frostbite on one of his big toes.
Oxygen was used by Al Houby from C1 to the summit to C2. Mclean used it from C2 to the top to C2. Damian Benegas, Erroz and Lally used it from C3 to the top to C2. Mingma Tenji used oxygen in C4 to the top to C4, but the other Sherpas used it from C3 to the top to C3.
Non-summiting members:
Willie Benegas developed an ulcer in one eye in BC and returned to Kathmmandu for medical treatment. He returned to the mountain and ascended to C2 on 4 May, went back to Kathmandu and returned to BC on 16 May. He remained in BC and finally left with the others about ten days later.
Larson went up to C3 on 13 or 14 May, then stayed in BC until the team withdrew.
Reca got to C3 on 7 May, but had to leave the expedition on the 21st because of hernia.
Sherpas:
Dawa Gyalzen, 24/7/67, Lukla, Solu, Broad Peak X1
Dawa Temba, 8/7/89 (24/3/2046), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
Mingma Tenji, 7/11/84 (22/7/2041), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2,
Lhotse X1, Makalu X1, Dhaulagiri I X1
Pasang Nima/Ngima, 11/10/1987, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Dhaulagiri I X1
Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X8
Phura/Phurba Gyalzen, 24/1/84, Pangkoma, Jubing-4, Solu, Everest X2, Kangch X1,
Cho Oyu X1
- 내부 원정 ID7100
- 원본 EXPIDEVER11147
- 대장Willie Benegas
- 루트 (Route)S Col-SE Ridge
- 최고 도달고도8849m
- 정상 등정 성공예
- 산소 사용사용
- 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)
참가자 14명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Guillermo (Willie) Benegas | USA | Leader | - | - | - |
| Suzanne Al Houby | Palestine | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Damian Benegas | USA | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Matias Santiago (Matocco) Erroz | Argentina | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Erin Brett Lally | USA | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Mara Victoria Larson | USA | BC Manager | - | - | - |
| Leonardo Enrique (Leo) McLean | Argentina | Climber | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Miguel Reca | Argentina | Climber | - | - | - |
| Dawa Gyalzen (Dawa Geljen) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Dawa Temba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Mingma Tenzi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pasang Ngima Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Pasang Tendi Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |
| Phura Gyalzen (Phurba Gyalzen) Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | 성공 | 사용 | - |