원정 개요

BC at Tangnag, south of Barun Glacier
C1 at top of small mountain south of Makalu
C2 at SE Buttress
High point at SE Buttress.

Fujita got altitude sickness night they arrived at BC and had to be evacuated by helicopter to KTM. Returned to BC 8 Oct, after Shimakata and Sherpa had made C1 and C2. Now winds became very strong for a week, lessened for few days and again period of strong wind. Shimataka to BC 10 Oct. 15 Oct both members and Sherpas up to C1 and reached 6600m on 16th and driven back to C1 by wind. At C1 3 days and down to BC but this time tent at C1 broken by wind. 22 Oct again up by all climbers to C1 and stayed there 18 days. Above C1 route exposed to wind, which even blew away fixed rope on this section. Down to BC 9 Nov; had abandoned idea of reaching main summit but hoped for SE Summit on 12 Nov. When Fujita and Moti Lal could get only to 7050m on 8th, then gave up all attempt to climb.

Would like to try this very good route in true alpine-style, 2 members with no Sherpas or fixed camps.